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春の名残りと夏の始まりの一汁一菜 "ichiju-ichisai (one soup, one dish)" to mark the end of spring and the beginning of summer

貧乏人の歳時記
A minimalist's seasonal calendar

ストーリー
Recipe trivia

プランターの夏野菜が一斉に実をつけ始めた。トマト、ナス、ピーマン、キュウリなどだ。対して、春の野菜は董立ちしたり、葉が枯れて、そろそろ収穫も終わりに近づいている。交代の季節なのだ。単なる怠けの言い訳だけど、最近は同じプランターに冬から春にかけて育つ野菜と、春から秋にかけて育つ野菜を一緒に植えている。芽キャベツの横にトマトとか、エンドウの横に苦瓜といった具合だ。連作障害だったり、コンパニオンプランツの相性があって、うまく育たないこともあるけれど、うまく季節の変わり目に交代してくれると、いちいち土を入れ替えなくて良いので、こういうズボラな放置栽培でも、自分たちの食べる分くらいはなんとか収穫できている(いつもそんなにうまくいくとは限りません。全部枯れてしまうこともあります。料理は参考にしてもらって良いけれど、僕は園芸はど素人なので、そっちは真似しないでね)。そんなある日の、プランターの収穫物だけを使った禅寺式の「一汁一菜」。

The summer vegetables in the planters have all started to bear fruit at once. Tomatoes, eggplants, peppers, cucumbers, etc. In contrast, the spring vegetables have started to bolt and their leaves have withered, and the harvest is nearing the end. It's the season of change. It's just an excuse for being lazy, but recently I've been planting vegetables that grow from winter to spring and vegetables that grow from spring to autumn together in the same planter. For example, tomatoes next to Brussels sprouts, bitter melon next to peas. Sometimes they don't grow well because of problems with successive crops or because of the compatibility of companion plants, but if they are successfully rotated at the change of seasons, I don't have to replace the soil every time, so even with this lazy, neglected cultivation, I've managed to harvest enough for us to eat (it doesn't always work out that well. Sometimes they all wither. You can use the recipes as a reference, but I'm a complete novice when it comes to gardening, so don't try to imitate me). One day, I made a Zen-style "one soup, one dish" using only the produce from the planters.

「一汁一菜」が日本の庶民の食事の基本だった、みたいなことをいう人がいるけど、決してそんなことはなく、庶民の食事はそういう型にはまったものでは無かった。庶民は一日に一回しか米を炊かなかったし、米と言っても「かて飯(前のかて飯の記事を参照)」であることがほとんどだから、栄養のない白いご飯でなく、野菜や芋や雑穀のたっぷり入った高栄養価のご飯兼おかずである「かて飯」が主食だったのだ(もちろん主義なんかではなく経済的帰結)。昼はやはり雑穀入りのおにぎりを食べたり、芋を蒸したり、田んぼにいるタニシを煮たり、夕方は朝の残りご飯を使って雑炊を作ったりした。要は、年貢を納めた後、市場に持って行っても売れないものが全て食卓に上がっていたと考えるのが妥当だ。
本来「一汁一菜」は禅寺の修行で規定された食事の形式で、ご飯(必ずしも白飯という意味ではない)、汁、お新香、お菜一品のことを指す。貧乏食というよりは、美食の欲望を抱かないような粗食のことを指している。修行するのに最低限の食事で贅沢を削ぎ落とした食事の最低構成という意味だ。来客があったり、ハレの日には、お菜が増えて、「一汁二菜」とか「一汁三菜」という風に言い方が変わる。この「一汁N菜」形式を本膳料理や懐石料理が引き継いで、江戸時代には上方割烹料理のスタンダードとなった。元禄以降は、商人や裕福な農民まで、「一汁三菜」や「一汁五菜」の料理を食べるようになったものだから、緊縮政策を推し進めなければならなかった幕府や貧乏藩は、「一汁一菜」を倹約令の目標にした。
高度成長で、日本もいわゆる先進国の仲間入りをして、白米が主食になり、欧米型の高カロリーの食事をし始めたところで、日本でも成人病が問題になり始める。そんな折、成人病先進国のアメリカの役所から、日本や沖縄の戦前の食生活が成人病に有効といったレポートが出てきたのだ。それを受けて、日本の役所や研究者がこぞって原点回帰の日本の食事を合唱し始めたのだ。その時に使われたのが、やはりこの「一汁一菜」というプロパガンダである。
だから、「日本の庶民は昔から健康的な『一汁一菜』の食事をしてきたから健康」という話は、正確ではない。白いご飯を主食にしている以上、「一汁二菜」や「一汁三菜」が必要な場合だってあるのだ。必要なのは中身であって『一汁一菜』という形式にこだわる必然性はどこにもない。忙しいビジネスマンには、丼一杯で完結する食事も魅力的だ。だから、これでもかというくらい具を乗せたタンメンや五目そばみたいに「一汁一菜」的要素をいっぱいに詰め込んであれば、それも全然ありなのだ。証拠に、海外でも日本的具沢山のラーメンは大人気だ。「一汁一菜」という言葉はわかりやすい。ただ、形式にこだわりすぎると、抜け落ちるものが出てくることも認識しておいた方が良いと思う。

Some people say that "ichiju-ichisai" (one soup and one dish) was the basis of the common people's meals in Japan, but that is not true at all, and the common people's meals were not so fixed. The common people only cooked rice once a day, and when they said rice, it was almost always "katemeshi" (see the previous article on katemeshi), so it was not white rice with no nutrition, but "katemeshi" (a highly nutritious rice and side dish with plenty of vegetables, potatoes, and grains) that was their staple food (of course, this was not a principle but an economic consequence). At lunch, they ate rice balls with grains, steamed potatoes, boiled snails from the rice fields, and in the evening, they made porridge using the leftover rice from the morning. In short, it is reasonable to think that after paying the tax, everything that could not be sold at the market was served on the table.
Originally, "ichiju-ichisai" was a meal format prescribed in the training of Zen temples, and referred to rice (not necessarily white rice), soup, pickles, and one side dish. Rather than poor people's food, it refers to simple food that does not evoke the desire for fine cuisine. It means the minimum composition of a meal that is the minimum required for training and has been stripped of luxuries. When guests come or on special occasions, the number of dishes increases, and the phrase changes to "one soup, two dishes" or "one soup, three dishes." This "one soup, N dishes" format was inherited by honzen cuisine and kaiseki cuisine, and became the standard of Kamigata Kappo cuisine in the Edo period. After the Genroku period, even merchants and wealthy farmers began to eat "one soup, three dishes" or "one soup, five dishes," so the shogunate and poor feudal domains, which had to push through austerity policies, made "one soup, one dish" the goal of their frugality edicts.
With rapid economic growth, Japan joined the ranks of so-called developed countries, white rice became the staple food, and people began to eat high-calorie Western-style meals, and adult diseases began to become a problem in Japan as well. At that time, a report was issued from a government office in the United States, a country that is advanced in adult diseases, stating that the prewar diet of Japan and Okinawa was effective against adult diseases. In response, Japanese government officials and researchers all began to sing the praises of a return to the Japanese diet's roots. The propaganda they used at the time was, of course, this "ichiju-ichisai" (one soup, one dish) idea.
So it's not accurate to say that "Japanese common people are healthy because they've been eating a healthy "ichiju-ichisai" (one soup, one dish) diet since ancient times." As long as white rice is the staple food, there are times when "ichiju-nisai " (one soup, two dishes) or "ichiju-Sansai" (three dishes) are necessary. What's important is the content, and there's no need to stick to the "ichiju-ichisai" (one soup, one dish) format.  For busy businessmen, a meal that can be completed in one bowl is also attractive. So, if it is packed with "one soup and one dish" elements, such as tanmen or gomoku soba, which are topped with a huge variety of ingredients, it is perfectly acceptable. As proof, Japanese ramen with lots of ingredients is very popular overseas. The phrase "ichijuu ichisai" (one soup and one dish) is easy to understand. However, I think it is important to be aware that if you get too hung up on the formality, you may end up missing something.

ここでは、名残の春野菜である、掻き萵苣、菜の花、セロリの葉、えんどう豆。そして、実り始めた夏野菜の、ミニトマト、なす、キュウリ。これらを使って、朝ご飯を作った。主食がえんどう豆ご飯で、具沢山の味噌汁も作ったので、結果として「一汁一菜」となった。でも、もしこれが仕事依頼で、主食が精白した米のご飯という条件だったら、きっと僕は「一汁二菜」か「一汁三菜」にしてバランスを取っただろう。

Here, I used the last of the spring vegetables, leaf lettuce, rape blossoms, celery leaves, and peas. And the summer vegetables that have begun to ripen, cherry tomatoes, eggplant, and cucumbers. I used these to make breakfast. The main dish was pea rice, and I also made miso soup with lots of ingredients, so in the end it was "one soup and one side dish." However, if this had been a job request and the condition was that the main dish had to be polished rice, I'm sure I would have balanced it out by having "one soup and two side dishes" or "one soup and three side dishes."

Ingredients:
材料:

白米
収穫したえんどう豆(もちろん市販品で良い)
収穫した菜の花(青菜類。なんでも良い)
収穫したセロリの葉(無くても良い)
収穫した掻き萵苣(レタス類。なんでも良い)
収穫したミニトマト(市販品で良い)
収穫したナス(市販品で良い)
自家製きゅうりのピクルス(前の記事参照。適当な漬物で良い)
自家製常備出汁(前の記事参照)
煮干
味噌
昆布
胡麻(市販のすりごまで良い)
薄口醤油

White rice
Harvested peas (store-bought, of course)
Harvested rape blossoms (greens, any will do)
Harvested celery leaves (optional)
Harvested lettuce (lettuce, any will do)
Harvested cherry tomatoes (store-bought will do)
Harvested eggplant (store-bought will do)
Homemade cucumber pickles (see previous article. Any suitable pickle will do)
Homemade stock (see previous article)
Dried sardines
Miso
Kombu
Sesame (store-bought grated sesame seeds are fine)
Light type soy sauce

procedure:
手順:

火口が1つを前提に作るレシピ。火口が複数ある場合は並行して良い。
(えんどう豆ご飯の下拵え)
厚手の鍋を用意して、白米はといで、昆布を一欠片入れて、吸水させておく。米と水の重量比は15:18。
えんどう豆は鞘から出しておく。
(味噌汁の下拵え)
ナスは一口大に切っておく。
ミニトマトは半分に切っておく。
掻き萵苣は食べやすい大きさに千切っておく。
(お浸しの下拵え)
菜の花とセロリの葉は、洗って、一口大に切り分けておく。
スープ用の鍋に、煮干しを入れ、水を注いでおく。前日に用意し、冷蔵庫に準備しておけば、なお良い。
胡麻をすり潰しておく。
(ご飯を炊く)
白米の鍋に、昆布と鞘から取り出したえんどう豆を入れ、塩と薄口醤油でも味をつける。
蓋をして、強火で加熱する。
沸騰したら、火を弱火におとして、15分加熱して、火を止め、10分くらい蒸らす。
(お浸しを作る)
鍋に、お湯を沸かし、菜の花とセロリの葉を茹でる。
茹でた菜の花とセロリの葉は流水か氷水で冷やして、絞って水を切っておく。
茹で上がった菜の花とセロリの葉をボウルに入れ、すりごまと、常備しておいた出汁をそそぎ、よく混ぜ合わせる。味をみて、薄口醤油を注いで味を整える。
(漬物の用意)
きゅうりのピクルスは、切り分けて皿に盛っておく。
(味噌汁を作る)
スープの鍋にナスを入れて加熱し、沸騰したら、火を弱め、ナスが柔らかくなるまで煮る。
そこに、トマトと掻き萵苣をいれ、再び沸騰したら、味噌を溶いて、すぐに火を止める。
(食卓にサービスする)
それぞれ、器に盛り付けて提供する。

This recipe is based on one burner. If you have multiple burners, you can do the steps at the same time.
(Preparing for pea rice)
Prepare a thick-bottomed pot, rinse the rice, and add a piece of kelp to soak up the water. The weight ratio of rice to water is 15:18.
Remove the peas from their pods.
(Preparing for miso soup)
Cut the eggplant into bite-sized pieces.
Cut the cherry tomatoes in half.
Tear the leaf lettuce into bite-sized pieces.
(Preparing for the simmered dish)
Wash the rape blossoms and celery leaves and cut them into bite-sized pieces.
Put the dried sardines in a soup pot and pour in water. It is even better if you prepare it the day before and keep it in the refrigerator.
Mash the sesame seeds.
(Cooking rice)
Put the kelp and peas removed from their pods in the rice pot, and season with salt and light soy sauce.
Cover and cook over high heat.
Once boiling, reduce heat to low and cook for 15 minutes, then turn off heat and let steam for about 10 minutes.
(Making the dish)
In a pot, bring water to a boil and boil the rape blossoms and celery leaves.
Cool the boiled rape blossoms and celery leaves under running water or ice water and squeeze out the water.
Put the boiled rape blossoms and celery leaves in a bowl, pour in the ground sesame and stock you have prepared, and mix well. Taste and add light soy sauce to adjust the flavor.
(Preparing the pickles)
Cut the cucumber pickles into pieces and arrange on a plate.
(Making miso soup)
Put eggplant in a soup pot and heat it. Once it boils, reduce heat and simmer until the eggplant is soft.
Add the tomatoes and leaf lettuce, bring it to a boil again, dissolve the miso, and immediately turn off the heat.
(Serve at the table)
Serve each dish in a serving dish.

Tips and tricks:    
コツと応用のヒント:

「一汁一菜」は、汁物(すまし汁でも味噌汁でも、けんちん汁のようなものでも汁物ならなんでも良い)とお菜(お浸しでも、焼き物でも、煮物でも、なんでも良い)を指している。主食(炊いたご飯でも、かて飯でも、芋でも、素麺でも、パンでも、主たるエネルギーになる炭水化物なら、なんでも良い)と漬物は、必ず提供するのが前提。だから、内容的に「一汁一菜」は「主食➕お菜一品➕汁物➕漬物」ということになる。栄養学的に「一汁一菜」を習慣にするのなら、主菜が精白した米や白いパンで、汁物の具が寂しいなら、バランスを考えて、「一汁二菜」とか「一汁一三菜」にする柔軟性を持つことが好ましい。
ここでは、旬のえんどう豆の香りを楽しむため、あえて、精白した米を使っている。僕の場合は普段は「かて飯」かライ麦の入ったパン。蕎麦やうどん、その他のパスタでも良い。江戸時代の人はとにかくよく歩いたし、農作業をしたので、一食二合のご飯に相当する炭水化物を普通に摂っていたけど、現代人にはそれほどのエネルギーは必要ないので、そこを真似する必要はない。ただ、現代の日本のお菜は、化学合成系の調味料や甘辛醤油味の乱用で、味が濃すぎるので(これは、精白した米を主食にしたことで、主に戦後に始まった味付けのスタイルであり、戦前の味付けとは違う)、どうしても白飯や白いパンを過食してしまう。お菜を薄味にして素材の味そのものを味わう習慣がつけば、自然と白飯の消費量は減っていく。健康のために「一汁一菜」を実践するなら、そこを意識することが大事だと思う。

"Ichijyu , ichisai(one soup, one dish)" refers to soup (clear soup, miso soup, or something like kenchin-jiru, any soup will do) and side dish (boiled, grilled and simmered dish, anything will do). Staple food (cooked rice, kate-meshi, potatoes, somen noodles, bread, any carbohydrate that will be the main source of energy will do) and pickles are always provided. So, in terms of content, "ichijyu, ichisai" is "staple food + side dish + soup + pickles". If you want to make "ichijyu, ichisai" a habit from a nutritional standpoint, if the main dish is white rice or white bread and the soup is lacking in ingredients, it is preferable to have the flexibility to make it "one soup, 2-side dish" or "one soup, 3-side dish" to balance it out.
Here, I deliberately use white rice to enjoy the aroma of seasonal peas. In my case, I usually have "kate-meshi" or rye bread. Soba, udon, or other pasta is also fine. People in the Edo period walked a lot and did farm work, so they normally consumed the equivalent of two cups of rice per meal, but modern people don't need that much energy, so there's no need to imitate them. However, modern Japanese dishes are too strong-flavored due to the overuse of synthetic seasonings and sweet and spicy soy sauce (this is a style of seasoning that began mainly after the war, when polished rice became the staple food, and is different from the seasoning before the war.), so people tend to overeat white rice and white bread. If you get into the habit of eating lightly seasoned dishes and savoring the flavor of the ingredients themselves, you will naturally consume less white rice. I think it's important to keep this in mind if you're practicing the "ichiju-ichisai" diet for health reasons.

汁物は具沢山にしている。タンパク質が足りないなら、薄揚げや豆腐、うち豆や炒り豆を入れても良い。常備している出汁を使っても良いが、ここでは椎茸の戻し汁と椎茸の茎が残っていたので、出汁に使っている。初夏でさっぱりと食べさせたいので、フローラルな香りのある麦味噌を使っている。信州味噌でも良い。そこはお好みで。根菜が主体になるなら、より濃厚な仙台味噌を使うか、白味噌や八丁味噌を最初から入れてちょっと煮込むと良い。白味噌や八丁味噌はさっと煮るのでは無く、煮込んだ方がコクが増す。もちろん澄まし仕立ての汁や洋風や中華風のスープ、ダルスープなどでも良い。
お菜は、汁物に入れた具とのバランスで考えると良い。汁物が豆腐などのタンパク質が主なら野菜をたっぷり、汁物が野菜主体なら厚揚げや焼き魚、納豆などにして、バランスをとる。
漬物は、塩漬けでも、糠漬けでも、ピクルスやアチャールのようなものでも良い。僕は冬菜漬けとピクルスが残っていたので、ピクルスを使っている。
出汁といくつかの漬物を常備しておけば、作業は大幅に楽になる。味噌汁は予め、味噌と昆布粉ないし煮干粉などを混ぜておけば、解くだけで使えるので、時間の節約にもなる。

The soup is full of ingredients. If you don't have enough protein, you can add fried tofu, mashed or roasted beans. You can use any stock you have on hand, but here I used the water from soaking shiitake mushrooms and some leftover shiitake mushroom stems. Since it's early summer and I want to serve something refreshing, I used barley miso with a floral scent. Shinshu miso is also fine. It's up to your preference. If root vegetables are the main ingredient, you can use Sendai miso, which is richer, or add white miso or Hatcho miso from the beginning and simmer for a while. White miso and Hatcho miso are more flavorful if simmered rather than boiled quickly. Of course, clear soup, Western or Chinese soup, or dal soup are also fine.
It's good to think about the balance of the side dishes with the ingredients in the soup. If the soup is mainly tofu or other protein, use plenty of vegetables, and if it is mainly vegetables, use deep-fried tofu, grilled fish, natto, etc. to balance it out.
Pickles can be salted, pickled in rice bran, or something like pickles or achar. I had some pickled winter greens and pickles left over, so I used the pickles.
If you keep some stock and some pickles on hand, the process becomes much easier. For miso soup, if you mix miso, kelp, dried sardine powder, etc. in advance, you can use it just by dissolving it, which saves time.

全体的には、薬膳でも使う「五味五色」という考え方も使うと良い。食物を構成する分子はそれぞれ独自の色や味を持つので、それを満遍なく取り入れれば、目にも綺麗だし、栄養的にもバランスが取れるという考え方だ。「五味」は、塩辛い、甘い、酸っぱい、苦い、美味い(ピリッと辛い)のバランスを取ること。「五色」は、青(緑)、赤(紫)、橙(黄)、白、茶色(黒)のバランスを取ること。
もう一つ、薬膳的な考え方を導入すると、「体を冷やす素材と温める素材を使い分ける」ことだ。例えば、「冷え性の人には体を温める素材を使う」といった配慮だ。この辺りに興味のある人は、Noteにも薬膳やアーユルヴェーダの専門家が沢山いらっしゃるので、検索してみると良いだろう。

Overall, it is good to use the idea of ​​the "five tastes and five colors" that is also used in medicinal cuisine. The molecules that make up food each have their own color and taste, so if you incorporate them evenly, your food will be pleasing to the eye and nutritionally balanced. The "five tastes" are a balance of salty, sweet, sour, bitter, and umami (or spicy). The "five colors" are a balance of blue (green), red (purple), orange (yellow), white, and brown (black).
Another medicinal cuisine idea is to "use ingredients that cool the body and ingredients that warm the body separately." For example, "use ingredients that warm the body for people who are prone to cold." If you are interested in this, there are many medicinal cuisine and Ayurvedic experts on Note, so it would be a good idea to search for them.

Guide to where to get ingredients and equipment
材料と機材の入手先ガイド

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