特別編　通圓

860年、宇治茶と宇治橋を守ってきた名店

京阪宇治駅を降りてすぐ、宇治橋のたもとにある茶屋・通圓は、その小さな店構えからは想像できない壮大な物語を有している。創業は1160年。平安時代末期で平清盛が世を治めていた頃にまで遡る。現存する日本最古級のカフェのひとつともいわれる通圓だが、創業時は幕府からの命を受け、橋の通行管理に携わる「橋守」と呼ばれる、いわば関所の番人のような役割を担っていたという。

Tsūen

Guardian of Uji tea and Uji Bridge since 1160.

Located at the foot of Uji bridge just across from Keihan Uji Station, Tsūen is a small tea shop with a big history. It was established in 1160 in the late Heian Period when Tairano Kiyomori held the reins of power. At the time the Tsūen family were bridge guards controlling passage across the Uji Bridge on behalf of the shogunate, but were also in the business of providing tea to travelers. This makes Tsūen one of the oldest existing purveyors of tea in Japan.

また、豊臣秀吉が宇治を訪れた際にはここで茶を飲んだというエピソードが残されているほか、親交のあった茶人・千利休が作らせた釣瓶や、アニメ「一休さん」で知られる僧侶・一休宗純が通圓7代目当主のために自ら彫って寄贈した木像など、文化財級の貴重なものがいまも店内には飾られている。

Tsūen has been visited by a host of notable historical figures such as Toyotomi Hideyoshi, who is said to have partaken in tea here during his travels to Uji. There’s also a display of valuable cultural artifacts collected by the family over the years in the store, including a tsurube bucket made by order of friend and famous tea master Sen no Rikyū, and a wooden statue carved for the 7th head by the monk Ikkyū Sōjun on whom the cartoon series Ikkyū-san is based.

現在お店を切り盛りしているのは24代目当主・通円祐介さん。店に入ると、彼が淹れてくれた茶をいただきながら、甘みのあるものか渋みが強いものか、深味あるものかさっぱり飲みやすいものかなど、ゆっくり会話をしながら好みに合ったお茶を勧めてくれるのが嬉しい。

The present owner is Yūsuke Tsūen, the 24th generation of his family to head the business. He takes time to personally serve us samples of tea he has prepared and talk with us about about our preferences—bitter or sweet, strong or light—before recommending a tea that is right for us.

併設の茶房では、本場宇治で採れた挽きたての抹茶を使ったパフェや茶蕎麦とともに、おいしい抹茶や煎茶が味わえる。窓からは宇治川の水面を跳ねる美しい光と、秀吉が「あそこから汲んだ水で茶を点てよ」と命じたといわれる「宇治橋 三の間（さんのま）」が見える。

The café on premises offers matcha and green tea drinks as well as parfaits, green tea soba noodles and more made with locally produced matcha. There is also an excellent view of the Uji River reflecting the sunlight and the Uji Bridge San-no-ma where Toyotomi Hideyoshi is said to have ordered water to be drawn from the river to make tea.

源氏物語の主要な舞台にもなった宇治の歴史に欠かすことのできない名店として、今後も通圓は宇治橋のたもとで宇治の茶文化の流れを見守り続けていくことだろう。いつかあなたが年を重ねた時も、変わらず当主の淹れた茶を飲みながら話を愉しみ、わざわざ茶を買うためだけに何度も何度も訪れたい、そんなお店になるだろう。

Just as Tsūen has had an integral role in the story of this historical land of Uji, the stage for the legendary Tale of Genji, it will no doubt continue to guard Uji’s tea culture from this spot at the foot of Uji Bridge for centuries to come. Whether it be for a chat over a delicious cup of tea made by the owner or to purchase tea leaves for home, Tsūen is the kind of shop you’ll look forward to visiting again and again for many a year to come.

【住所】京都府宇治市宇治東内１番地
【営業時間】午前9：30〜午後5：30（年中無休）
【アクセス】京阪宇治駅 真正面、JR宇治駅から東へ徒歩７分
【Phone】0774-21-2243

【Address】1 Uji Higashiuchi, Uji City, Kyoto
【Open】9:30 am - 5:30 pm daily
【Access】Across the road from Uji Station on the Keihan Uji Line, a 7-minute walk from JR Uji station
【Phone】0774-21-2243

[TSUEN TEA] ■宇治茶の老舗・通圓■