徳島の秋祭りの定番のご馳走「ぼうぜの姿寿司」 A staple dish at Tokushima's autumn festivals: "Bouze no sugata sushi (sushi made with a whole pacific rudderfish)"：おまかせ小品集 Chef's choice dishes collection
深夜食堂（ドラマの深夜食堂よりずっと前のお話）」でお出しした料理の小品集。材料がある限り何でも出してました。ほとんど即興だったので何百種類も作りましたが、お客様のエピソードを思い出せるものを少しづつ再現します（差し支えある話は多少脚色しています）。
A collection of small dishes served on "Midnight Diner" (a story that took place long before the TV drama "Midnight Diner"). We served anything as long as we had the ingredients. Since it was mostly improvisation, we made hundreds of dishes, but we will recreate little by little the ones that remind us of our customers' episodes (we have dramatized some of the more inappropriate stories).
おまかせの時間
The inspiration for the recipe
深夜のお客さんで、ITの会社に勤めている男性がいた。彼はプログラマーで、僕もプログラマーと飲食業の二足の草鞋を履いているので、お客さんが切れると、ＩＴ関連の共通の話題で盛り上がった。彼とは、仕事の話題以外にもう一つ共通の話題があった。彼の出身地の徳島県の話題だ。僕は母が徳島出身なので、馴染みがあった。実は、僕がバーに立っていた鎌倉では、徳島県出身の人にあまり会ったことがない。彼も同様だったようだ。徳島県は関東では結構マイナーな県だ。同じ関西でも、大阪や神戸の人は方言を直さないし声が大きい。同じ四国でも、讃岐や土佐の人の方が目立っている。徳島出身の著名人と言っても、超メジャーな人はあまりいない。三木元首相ぐらいだけど、短命内閣だったし印象も薄い。この県と縁のない人は、阿波踊り、鳴門のワカメ、スダチくらいしか思い浮かばない人も多いだろう。讃岐うどんや鰹のたたき、じゃこ天みたいに全国区になった料理がないのだ。僕は阿波弁は喋れないけど、意味は全部わかるので、彼も安心して阿波弁で、徳島の話を楽しそうに喋ってくれた。
僕は、徳島名産の「半田麺（徳島名産の太めの素麺）」が大好きで、夜の〆飯のためにその乾麺を常備していた。だから、煮麺や素麺、素麺チャンプルーなどを頼まれると、必ず半田麺を使っていた。当時僕が半田麺を使っていることを言い当てたのは、彼を含めて数人の食通客だけだった。稲庭うどんや三輪素麺、島原素麺などに比べて当時は認知度が極端に低かった。今でもこの徳島ブランドにピンとくる人は少ない。嬉しいことに、その頃、大阪の人だけど、鎌倉に素敵な和食屋さん（鎌倉駅徒歩０分）を出した人がいて、徳島と縁があって彼が半田麺を看板にしてくれたので、鎌倉での認知度は随分高まった。これからの季節、スダチをあしらった彼のところの半田麺は絶品なので、近場の方でご存知ない方は、ぜひ試してみて欲しい。
One of the customers late at night was a man who worked for an IT company. He was a programmer, and I also work as a programmer and in the food and beverage industry, so when there were no other customers left, we got excited talking about IT-related topics. In addition to work, we had another common topic. It was about Tokushima Prefecture, where he was from. My mother is from Tokushima, so I was familiar with the area. In fact, in Kamakura, where I used to stand at the bar, I have never met many people from Tokushima Prefecture. It seems that he was the same. Tokushima Prefecture is a fairly minor prefecture in the Kanto region. Even in the same Kansai region, people from Osaka and Kobe don't correct their dialect and have loud voices. Even in the same Shikoku region, people from Sanuki and Tosa are more noticeable. There are not many super-famous people from Tokushima. There is only former Prime Minister Miki, but it was a short-lived cabinet and he made a small impression. Many people who have no connection to this prefecture will only remember Awa Odori, Naruto wakame seaweed, and sudachi lemon. There are no dishes that have become popular nationwide like Sanuki udon, bonito tataki, and jakoten. Although I can't speak Awa dialect, I understood everything that was being said, so he felt at ease and happily told me stories about Tokushima in the dialect.
I love Tokushima's specialty "Handamen (a thick somen noodle)" and always had some of it on hand for dinner. So when I was asked to make boiled noodles, somen, or somen chanpuru, I always used Handa noodles. At the time, only a few foodie customers, including him, were able to tell that I was using Handa noodles. Compared to Inaniwa udon, Miwa somen, Shimabara somen, etc., the public's recognition of Handa noodles was extremely low at the time. Even now, few people are aware of this Tokushima brand. Fortunately, at that time, a man from Osaka opened a wonderful Japanese restaurant in Kamakura (0 minutes walk from Kamakura Station), and because he had a connection with Tokushima, he made Handa noodles the signboard, so the recognition in Kamakura increased considerably. In the coming season, his Handa noodles, garnished with sudachi, are exquisite, so if you live nearby and don't know about them, please give them a try.
ある秋祭りの季節に、彼のために徳島の郷土料理「ぼうぜの姿寿司」を作った。「ぼうぜ」とは阿波弁で「イボダイ（エボダイ）」のことで、徳島の秋の収穫祭の宵の宮には必ず用意されるお寿司だ。高知の皿鉢料理にすっかりお株を奪われてしまっているが、徳島にも似た大皿料理の習慣があり、お祝い事や法事や祭りの際には、大皿で煮しめや刺身などが宴席に並ぶ。その目玉がぼうぜの姿寿司だ。彼は毎年秋祭りの時期に休暇を取って帰省していたが、この年は仕事で休暇が取れず鎌倉に居た。それで市場でエボダイをみてピンときて、急遽彼のためにこの寿司を作ったのだった。この推理は当たっていたようで、彼は僕の予想以上に喜んでくれた。彼のために彼のお婆ちゃんが毎年作ってくれるお寿司だったようだ。他県では見たことがないので、多分徳島にしかない料理なのだと思う。
同じスタイルで、アジやイワシ、サバ、カマス、アマダイ、ヤマメなどを使うバリエーションもある。
During one autumn festival season, I made a Tokushima local dish, "Bouze no Sugata Sushi" for him. "Bouze" means "Ibodai (Ebodai / Japanese butterfish)" in Awa dialect, and this sushi is always prepared at the evening of Tokushima's autumn harvest festival. Although it has been completely overshadowed by Kochi's Sawachi cuisine, Tokushima also has a similar custom of large-plate dishes, where simmered dishes and sashimi are served on large plates at banquets during celebrations, memorial services, and festivals. The highlight of the dish is Boze no Sugata Sushi. Every year, he takes a vacation to go back home during the autumn festival, but that year he was unable to take vacation due to work and was in Kamakura. So when he saw an Ebodai at the market, it hit him and he quickly made this sushi for him. It turned out my guess was right, and he was more pleased than I expected. It seems that it was sushi that his grandmother makes for him every year. I have never seen it in other prefectures, so I think it is probably a dish that only exists in Tokushima.
There are also variations of the same style using horse mackerel, sardines, mackerel, barracuda, tilefish and yamame trout.
ボウゼは、ウオゼ、ウボゼ、モチウオ、シズ（本来瀬戸内の方言だけど、市場では輸入の近縁種を指すことが多い）とも呼ばれる。関東では干物でぐらいしか見かけないけど、関西や九州では普通に出回っている魚だ。かつては安い大衆魚だったけど、今はあまり獲れないので、結構値が張る。成長しても１５センチぐらいの小型の魚で、鱗が細かく粘膜で覆われているのが特徴だ。秋口の脂が乗った時が一番美味しくなる。新鮮だと刺身や握り寿司でも絶品。近縁種は世界中に生息していて、東南アジアや中国でもよく食べられている。徳島でも、夏から秋にかけて、ひと塩したエボダイを行商の人が売りにきて、代々、これが手に入ると寿司を作っていたのだと、祖母から聞いたことがある。骨が柔らかくて、骨ごと揚げても美味しい。東南アジアで、ぶつ切りにして揚げた料理を食べたことがある。
ぼうぜの姿寿司は知る人ぞ知る認知度の低い郷土料理だったが、東京にも出店した徳島の割烹「青柳」の三代目の小山裕久（徳島出身者では彼が一番有名かも）氏が紹介し、洗練した一品としたことで、東京でも知られるようになった。ちなみに青柳はミシュラン獲得の料理人を何人も輩出している。
Bouze is also called Uoze, Uboze, Mochiuo, and Shizu (which is actually a Setouchi dialect word, but often refers to an imported related species in the market). In the Kanto region, it is only seen as dried fish, but in Kansai and Kyushu, it is a fish that is commonly sold. It used to be a cheap fish for the masses, but now it is not caught very often, so it is quite expensive. It is a small fish that grows to about 15 cm, and is characterized by its fine scales covered with mucus membrane. It tastes best when it is fatty in early autumn. When it is fresh, it is excellent as sashimi or nigiri sushi. Related species live all over the world, and are often eaten in Southeast Asia and China. My grandmother told me that in Tokushima, from summer to autumn, peddlers come to sell salted ebodai, and for generations, when they can get it, they make sushi. The bones are soft, so it is delicious when fried with the bones on. I once ate a dish in Southeast Asia where it was cut into chunks and fried. Bouze no sugata sushi was a little-known local dish among those in the know, but it became known in Tokyo after Hirohisa Koyama (perhaps the most famous person from Tokushima), the third-generation owner of the Tokushima restaurant "Aoyagi," which also has a Tokyo branch, introduced it and refined it. Incidentally, Aoyagi has produced several Michelin-starred chefs.
徳島出身の件の彼は、今はアメリカで技術者として活躍している。アメリカに居を構えた後も、毎年秋には徳島に帰省しているそうだ。
The man in question is originally from Tokushima and is currently working as an engineer in the U.S. Even after settling in the U.S., he still returns to Tokushima every autumn.
三浦沖の小型のエボダイが安く手に入ったので、久しぶりにぼうぜの姿寿司を作った。
I was able to get a small ebodai off the coast of Miura for cheap, so I made bouze sugata sushi for the first time in a while.
Today's Ingredients:
今日の素材：
新鮮なぼうぜ（エボダイ）
白米
昆布
米酢（好みの酢で良い）
自然塩
Fresh ebodai (butterfish)
White rice
Konbu kelp
Rice vinegar (any vinegar you like)
Sea salt
procedure:
つくり方:
エボダイを頭ごと背開きにする。えらと内臓を取って、黒い部分をしごき取って、よく洗う。中骨を包丁で削ぎ取る。
開いたエボダイの両面にたっぷり塩を振って、３０分ほど置いておく。
エボダイの塩を流水で洗い流し、酢に一時間ほど漬け込む。
この間に、白飯を、昆布を入れて、ちょっと堅めに炊き上げる。
炊き上がったばかりの熱いご飯に、酢と塩を混ぜて、ご飯粒を潰さないように混ぜる。鮨飯が水気を吸って輝いた状態になったら、人肌まで冷ましておく。
エボダイを酢から取り出して、キッチンペーパーなどで水気を完全に取り除く。
鮨飯を丸めて軽く握り、エボダイの腹に詰め込んで、形を整える。
軽く重しをして、2、３時間置いて味をなじませる。
姿のままか、二等分にして、頭からかぶりつくのが一番美味しい食べ方。
季節なら、スダチを添えると本格的。
翌日硬くなっていたら、軽く炙って食べると美味しい。
Open the ebodai from the back, including the head. Remove the gills and internal organs, and squeeze out any black parts, then wash thoroughly. Remove the bones from the fish with a knife.
Sprinkle plenty of salt on both sides of the open ebodai and leave for about 30 minutes.
Rinse the ebodai to remove the salt under running water, then soak in vinegar for about an hour.
Meanwhile, add the kelp and cook the rice until it is a little firm.
Mix the vinegar and salt into the hot, just-cooked rice, being careful not to crush the rice grains. When the sushi rice has absorbed the water and is shiny, leave to cool to body temperature.
Remove the ebodai from the vinegar and remove all moisture using kitchen paper or similar.
Roll the sushi rice into a ball, lightly press it into the belly of the ebodai, and shape it.
Place a light weight on top and leave for 2-3 hours to let the flavors blend.
The best way to eat it is to eat it whole, or cut it in half, and bite into it head first.
If in season, add some sudachi for an authentic look.
If it hardens the next day, it tastes delicious when lightly grilled.
ヒントとバリエーション
Recipe tips and variation
エボダイの骨は柔らかいので、中骨を外すだけで、小骨があっても、丸ごと食べることができる。目玉が気になる人は捌く時に骨抜きなどで外すと良い。エボダイの細かい鱗が気になる場合は、包丁で軽く扱いて落とす。
ぱらぱらとしか塩を振らない人を見るが、身がよく締まるよう、塩は多めに振るのが正解。余分な水分が出て、格段に美味しくなる。
ここでは酢だけを使っているけど、甘くしたい人は、好みで砂糖を加えても良い。
ご飯には、ここでは酢だけを混ぜているが、好みで砂糖を加えても良い。砂糖には、酢飯が固くなるのを遅らせる機能があるので、時間をおいて食べるのにも砂糖を加えるのは効果的。また、スダチをや酢橘酢で混ぜても良い。
エボダイ以外の前述の魚を使うときは、骨が硬いので、脇骨や背鰭など、必要に応じて取ってから使うと良い。
The bones of the ebodai are soft, so you can eat the whole fish even if it has small bones, just by removing the backbone. If you are concerned about the eyes, you can use a bone remover when filleting the fish. If you are concerned about the small scales of the ebodai, lightly remove them with a knife.
Some people sprinkle salt lightly, but it is correct to sprinkle more salt on the fish so that the flesh will firm up. The excess moisture will come out and it will taste much better.
Here, only vinegar is used, but if you want it sweeter, you can add sugar to your taste.
Here, only vinegar is mixed into the rice, but you can add sugar to your taste. Sugar has the function of delaying the hardening of the vinegared rice, so adding sugar is also effective when eating it after a while. You can also mix in sudachi and sudachi vinegar.
When using fish other than the ebodai mentioned above, the bones are hard, so it is best to remove the side bones and dorsal fin as necessary before using.
Guide to where to get ingredients and equipment 材料と機材の入手先ガイド
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