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Ginza Kanoko’s Anmitsu

My fondness for anmitsu started with a bowl of Uji Kintoki shaved ice at the Ginza Kanoko Wakissa (a Japanese-style cafe) on a hot, humid August day in 2017. The light, cool shaved ice with matcha syrup, topped with shiratama (dumplings made of mochi rice), with large scoops of ogura-an (a sweet red-bean paste) hidden underneath, was a real delight. Sakura-cha, which is prepared by pouring hot water over edible cherry blossoms that are pickled in salt, was a perfect, palatable accompaniment.

When I visited the shop again later, the shaved ice season had ended, but it was a chance to try something new—the shiratama anmitsu. I imagined it to be a kind of “less cold” version of the shaved ice, but it was far more than that. Every part that comprised the anmitsu was shining; it was like a bowl of jewels. The small cubes of kanten (agar jelly, usually unsweetened); various types of beans, each with distinct texture; red peas with a salty flavor; azuki (red bean) paste; shiratama; fresh (not canned!) pineapple; sweet chestnut; soft gyuhi (sweet rice cake, like a soft version of mochi)... Every bite was a delight.

The staff members were always very friendly, and came around frequently with pots of tea to refill my cup with steaming hot green tea. The window seats from the wakissa, which was located on the second floor of the Ginza Kanoko main shop, had an entertaining birds-eye view of the center of Ginza. After multiple visits, the shop became a kind of “second home” to me.

Then the pandemic started, and the shop was forced to close, like other shops and restaurants. Then the heartbreaking news came in 2020—it had closed permanently.

However, there was hope. The Ginza Kanoko shop on the second basement floor (commonly known as the depachika) in Ginza Mitsukoshi remained in business, and they offered a variety of takeout versions of their anmitsu. I immediately became a regular customer. Although the experience of visiting the wakissa became a memory of the past, I’m grateful that we are able to continue enjoying their anmitsu in a different way. It became a place with a small but valuable social connection with the staff members, who are always warm, kind, and friendly. Our casual conversations always leave me with a smile.

If you’re in the Ginza area, or if you’d like to try anmitsu at home, I highly recommend that you stop by Ginza Kanoko! English guides for their varieties of anmitsu, Kanoko (sweets with gyuhi in the center, wrapped in beans and chestnuts, and covered with a glossy layer of kanten), and other items are available upon request—the staff members will happily help you!

(452 words) Written by Maya

This dessert is called mitsumame (anmitsu without the azuki bean paste).
 

For an in-depth look into anmitsu, please check out the article “Anmitsu – Seasons and Craftsmanship in a Bowl”!

Also, check out Ginza Kanoko on Instagram for information on seasonal items and pop-up shops! 

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