#5 Unagi In July ~ A Taste of Japanese Tradition ~

　Unagi(Eels) are often featured prominently in Japanese supermarkets and Japanese-owned stores in Singapore around this time of year. Interestingly, "Unagi" is such a popular dish that Singaporeans commonly refer to it by its Japanese name rather than "Eel" in English. However, it's worth noting that the prime season for wild eels is actually from October to December. This is because eels hibernate during the winter, and this period is when they are most delicious, having stored up nutrients and fat for hibernation. So, why do we see Unagi Day promotions in July?

うなぎの日(Unagi no Hi; Unagi Day)

　In English, it might be called Unagi Day, but in Japanese, it's referred to as 土用の丑 (Doyou no Ushi). This might sound a bit puzzling at first, but there's an interesting explanation behind it! To grasp the meaning of 土用の丑 (Doyou no Ushi), it's essential to understand the significance of this day.

What is "土用の丑(Doyou no Ushi)"?

　First, let’s consider the terms "Doyou" and "Ushi" separately. I could delve into more detailed explanations, but let's focus on the essentials here.

　In Japan, the seasons are sometimes thought of as five distinct periods: 春(spring), 夏(summer), 秋(autumn), 冬(winter), and 土用(Doyou). This concept originates from the ancient Chinese "The Five Elements Theory". According to this theory, the world comprises 木(wood), 火(fire), 土(earth), 金(metal), and 水(water), which interact to drive the cycles of life and seasons. As a big fan of the manga Naruto, this concept reminds me of the elemental themes in the series.

　This theory of the five elements developed over a long period of history, with spring being the season of wood, summer the season of fire, autumn the season of gold and winter the season of water, and soil came to be thought of as the foundation supporting all these cycles.

　From there, "earth" was established as an important period representing the turning point of the seasons, i.e. change and birth. The diagram below illustrates this. Each seasonal milestone has become a period known as "土用(Doyou)".

　Next, let’s talk about 丑(Ushi, the Ox). This will be familiar to anyone with even a basic understanding of Chinese culture. If you live in Singapore, you’re likely well-acquainted with it. Yes, it’s the twelve signs of the Chinese zodiac.

　The twelve signs of the Chinese zodiac have been extensively used in Japan since ancient times to count years, months, and days. Interestingly, while the last animal in the Chinese zodiac is the pig, in Japan, it’s the boar. This change is said to have occurred because, unlike in China, pigs were not traditionally domesticated in Japan, and wild boars were hunted instead.

　As shown in the diagram below, the twelve zodiac signs are assigned in sequence according to the date. For instance, in 2024, the Ox Day of the Doyou period falls on 24th July and 5th August.

Why Did It Become Unagi Day?

Why do we eat Unagi during the 土用(Doyou) period?

　It turns out that 土用(Doyou) is closely associated with health and diet. As mentioned earlier, the Doyou period marks the transition between seasons. According to the Five Elements theory, "earth (soil)" symbolises the nurturing foundation of all life. This means that the Doyou period represents a time when all things die, return to the earth, and new life is born again.

　And according to the Five Elements theory, the organs in the body are also divided into five categories, with the digestive system being associated with the earth element. The digestive organs absorb nutrients from food and distribute them to new cells, much like how soil nurtures plant life, don't you think so?

　Therefore, a custom arose to consume a diet that supports the digestive system, avoiding overeating and unhealthy foods during this transitional period. This practice helps maintain health and prevents illnesses, which are more likely to occur as the seasons change.

Why Unagi?

　Is it just a marketing campaign to sell more Unagi? Yes, indeed. This strategy, employed by merchants, is no different from modern marketing techniques.

　Historically, the Doyou period has been associated with a higher risk of falling ill, and people have been advised to take extra care of their health during this time. It was customary to eat foods starting with the syllable "う(u)", such as "瓜(うり,uri; gourd )", "梅干し(うめぼし,umeboshi; pickled plums)", and "うどん(udon; thick wheat noodles)". These practices were believed to help maintain health during the transitional period.

　Here's how Unagi seamlessly integrated into this custom. One of the most famous theories dates back to the Edo period in the 18th century. During this time, there was a well-known figure named 平賀源内(Hiraga Gennai). He was a scholar, writer, and entrepreneur, among many other titles. At one point, he was asked to help promote Unagi. His brilliant idea was the campaign, "Eat Unagi during Doyou". This is considered Japan's first-ever marketing catchphrase.

　The campaign had compelling reasoning.
　Firstly, there was already a historical belief dating back to the 7th or 8th century that eating nutritious Unagi in the summer was beneficial.
　Secondly, as previously mentioned, the word "Unagi" conveniently begins with the syllable "う(u)".
　And lastly, the Doyou period is traditionally seen as a time to take care of one's health.
　These logical connections made the campaign widely accepted by the public. Indeed, the influence of an educated individual like 平賀源内(Hiraga Gennai) is truly remarkable.

Summary

　In reality, many modern Japanese people don’t fully understand the history behind it, but they eagerly embrace the season, thinking, "It's time to eat Unagi!" and happily purchase it from supermarkets. Realising that there are intriguing discoveries and rich histories within our everyday lives makes each day more enjoyable. I, too, aim to stay curious in my daily life, to study why things are the way they are, and to share these insights.

Thank you for reading!