2019.12.15. 人生初の波乗り
人生初のサーフィン！
めちゃくちゃ楽しかった！
レッスンを30分間くらい受けて
そのあとは習うより慣れろ
はじめは気合満々で波に向かっていったけれど、
1時間後は...もう、へとへと
ほとんどの時間、ボードから落ち、大量の海水を飲み、叫んでただけだけれど、波に乗れた時はほんとに気持ちがよかった
風を感じてボードに乗って、最後は海に投げ出されるけれど、それすらもすがすがしかった
慣れたころに時間が来て
ほんとにへとへとだったけれど
まだまだやりたかった
絶対この夏またサーフィンする！
一つだけ後悔しているのは
写真を撮り忘れた！！！！！笑
Muriwai surf school Webはこちら
Carriages Cafe
I went surfing this morning with my friend.
That was Soooooooo exciting!!!!!
Before getting into the sea, we took some lesson for about 30 min and then Let's do it!
At the begging I went against the waves, I felt like " Come on Wave!!! I'll smash you!!!" but one hour later I was like " oh men...Please calm down..."
Most of the time I was falling into the sea, drinking salty water and screaming loudly but when I could ride on the wave by chance, that was awesome!!!! I was fast and could feel the air and then although I fell into the water, I was satisfied that I felt " This is the earth".
After the last riding, even though I was really tired, I felt like doing it more. I will definitely do it again in this summer.
One thing I regretted is forgetting taking photos!!!
so I put on some picture of my lunch I had after surfing.
The restaurant was great as well.
Today is one of the best day off in this year!!!!