グルテンフリー御用達な簡単棒餃子（無麩質煎餃簡單的做法） Easy recipe for gluten-free pan-fried dumplings：おまかせ小品集 Chef's choice dishes collection
深夜食堂（ドラマの深夜食堂よりずっと前のお話）」でお出しした料理の小品集。材料がある限り何でも出してました。ほとんど即興だったので何百種類も作りましたが、お客様のエピソードを思い出せるものを少しづつ再現します（差し支えある話は多少脚色しています）。
A collection of small dishes served on "Midnight Diner" (a story that took place long before the TV drama "Midnight Diner"). We served anything as long as we had the ingredients. Since it was mostly improvisation, we made hundreds of dishes, but we will recreate little by little the ones that remind us of our customers' episodes (we have dramatized some of the more inappropriate stories).
おまかせの時間
The inspiration for the recipe
僕がプロデュースした酒場で友達を見つけた人は多い。当時の鎌倉には若い人がお互いに気軽に知り合える場所がなかった。高度成長からバブルが弾けるまで、余裕のあった団塊の世代が飲み歩いていた時代は、小料理屋やカラオケスナックがその役目を果たしていた。次の世代のためにはそういう場所がなかった。そんな時代に復活したのが「立ち飲み酒場」だ。スナックみたいにチャージを払わなくても良いし、居酒屋のように席が固定されているわけでもないので、たまたま居合わせたお客さん同士が自由に移動して話をすることができる。千円もあれば結構長居もできる。僕が鎌倉で立ち飲み屋をプロデュースし始めたのも、そんな流れを先取りしてのことだった。一部の勝ち組を除き、日本の経済が下降期に入りつつあるのは、こういった酒場の変化にも反映されていた。
「角打ち」とか「立ち飲み」は、本来は、戦後の高度成長時代に流行った貧乏酒飲みのための営業形態。東京オリンピック辺りから始まった高度成長は大量の雇用を生み、首都圏に人口の大移動が起こった。都会や裕福な家庭の出身者は大学に行き、高級取りで就職後も安泰だったけど、地方出身の出稼ぎ労働者はそうはいかない。寝所を確保して田舎に送金すると、幾らも残らない。唯一の楽しみは仕事明けの一杯。なけなしの手持ち金で飲める場所が「角打ち」だった。酒場の一角で原価で飲む形態だ。酒屋での試飲を拡大解釈したグレーゾーン。角打ちはブルーカラーの聖域であり、普通のサラリーマンが馬鹿にしていた貧乏人酒場だった。僕が学生時代に角打ちに飲みに行った時は、彼らに気を使って、わざわざ作業着やジャージに着替えていたくらいだった。今風の立ち飲み酒場とは全然違っていて、お互いに詮索はしない、長居はしない、大声で話すのは駄目、女性の出入りは喧嘩の元なので原則禁止、といったルールがあった。だから一部の工場街や下町以外の場所では、一億総サラリーマン時代になって消えゆきつつある過去の業態だった。
そんな立ち飲み酒場の業態が平成になって復活したのは、直接にはバブル崩壊後に貧困化が進んだことの表れだ。酒場も、高級飲食店と安いチェーン酒場や立ち飲み居酒屋に二極化した。ただ、昭和の角打ちとの大きな違いは、おしゃれで閉鎖的でない点だ。金持ちでもフリーターでもユニクロを着るように、今の貧困層は見た目でわからない。貧乏人ばかりでなく、出会いを求める金持ちや団塊の世代も、あえて立ち飲みに行くようになった。友達作りの場という、昔の立ち飲みにはなかった、廉価版スナックの機能を期待する人も多い。
Many people found friends at the bars I produced. At that time in Kamakura, there were no places where young people could easily get to know each other. From the high economic growth to the bursting of the bubble economy, when the baby boomer generation who had money were drinking, small restaurants and karaoke bars played that role. There were no such places for the next generation. In such an era, the "standing bar" was revived. There is no charge like in a snack bar, and there are no fixed seats like in an izakaya, so customers who happen to be there can move around freely and talk with each other. With 1,000 yen, you can stay quite a long time. I started producing standing bars in Kamakura because I was ahead of this trend. The fact that the Japanese economy is entering a period of decline, except for a few winners, is reflected in the changes in such bars.
"Kakuuchi" and "standing bars" were originally business formats for poor drinkers that became popular during the postwar high-growth era. The high-growth period that began around the time of the Tokyo Olympics created a large number of jobs, and a large population movement occurred to the metropolitan area. People from cities and wealthy families went to university and were able to secure high-income jobs, but that was not the case for migrant workers from rural areas. Once they secured a place to stay and sent money back to the countryside, they didn't have much left. Their only enjoyment was a drink after work. "Kakuuchi" was a place where they could drink with what little money they had. It was a style of drinking at cost price in a corner of a reqour shop. It was a gray area that was an expanded interpretation of tastings at a liquor store. Kakuuchi was a sanctuary for blue-collar workers, a poor man's bar that was looked down upon by ordinary salarymen. When I went to Kakuuchi as a student, I would even go out of my way to change into work clothes or a tracksuit out of consideration for the people there. Completely different from modern standing bars, there were rules such as not prying into each other's affairs, not staying too long, not talking loudly, and in principle not allowing women in as it could lead to fights. Therefore, outside of some factory districts and downtown areas, it was a business model of the past that was disappearing in the era of 100 million salarymen.
The revival of this type of standing bar in the Heisei era is a direct sign of the growing poverty that followed the collapse of the bubble economy. Bars have also polarized into high-end restaurants and cheap chain bars and standing bars. However, a big difference from the corner bars of the Showa era is that they are fashionable and not closed off. Just as rich people and part-time workers alike can wear Uniqlo, it is difficult to tell who is poor today just by looking. It is not just the poor, but also the wealthy and baby boomers looking to meet new people who have started to go to standing bars. Many people are hoping that standing bars will function as a cheaper version of snack bars, a place to make friends that the standing bars of the past did not have.
当時はまだ立ち飲みの業態は珍しかったので、ずいぶんと人が集まった。そのうち、立ち飲みの味をしめたお客さんから、いろんな立ち飲みに行ってみたいという声が出てきて、僕が主催で有志を集めて「立ち飲みツアー」をやった。平日の昼に集合して、五千円程度の予算で少なくとも五軒はハシゴする内容だ。いわゆる「せんべろ（千円でべろべろ）」だ。エリアを決めたり、テーマを決めたり、いろんな設定で開催した。その頃は大分立ち飲み居酒屋も増え、フレンチ立ち飲みとかイタリアン立ち飲みとか、色んなジャンルの立ち飲み居酒屋が登場していた。
テーマが「中華立ち飲み」の時に出席率が１０割という女性客がいた。中国留学の経験のある彼女は中華料理が大好きなのだけど、小皿でものすごく沢山の種類を食べたい人だった。そういう彼女には、点心が一皿二、三百円の立ち飲み中華は相当魅力的だったようだ。僕のプロデュースした立ち飲み屋でも、彼女のために、毎回、特別に餃子や焼売の小皿を即興で作った。自分で作りたいというのでレシピも伝授した。ある時、彼女が浮かない顔で店に入ってきた。前から蕁麻疹がひどいとのことだったけど、グルテンアレルギーを医者から告げられた帰りだった。点心好きのグルテンアレルギーは辛い。それからは、グルテンフリーの中華小皿をよく作るようになった。出してみると反響が驚くほど高く、中華好きのグルテンアレルギーのお客さんが結構いるのを初めて知った。そんな彼女を含めたアレルギー持ちのためのレシピを用意した。
Standing bars were still a novelty at the time, so we got a lot of people. After a while, customers who got a taste for standing bars started saying they wanted to try different kinds, so I organized a "standing bar tour" with volunteers. We met on a weekday lunch and visited at least five bars with a budget of about 5,000 yen. It was the so-called "senbero" (get drunk for 1,000 yen). We held the tour in various settings, choosing different areas and themes. At that time, the number of standing bars was increasing, and various kinds of standing bars, such as French standing bars and Italian standing bars, were appearing.
When the theme was "Chinese standing bar," there was a female customer whose attendance rate was 100%. She had studied in China and loved Chinese food, but she wanted to eat a huge variety of small dishes. For her, a standing bar where dim sum was 200 to 300 yen per plate seemed quite appealing. Even at the standing bar I produced, I improvised a small plate of dumplings and shumai specially for her every time. She wanted to make it herself, so I taught her the recipe. One day, she came into the bar with a gloomy face. She had been suffering from severe hives, but she was on her way home after her doctor told her she had a gluten allergy. Being a gluten allergy for a dim sum lover is tough. Since then, I have often made gluten-free Chinese small plates. When I served them, the response was surprisingly high, and I realized for the first time that there are quite a few customers who love Chinese food but have a gluten allergy. I prepared recipes for allergies, including her.
店では生地から作っていたけど、このバージョンは、家庭用でも気軽に作れるよう、越南米紙（生春巻きの皮）を使って、包みやすいように棒餃子にしている。日本の焼き餃子（日式餃子）に近い中国の点心には２種類あって、日本の餃子のような包み方をするタイプが「鍋貼（鉄鍋餃子）」、棒のように巻くタイプが「煎餃（棒餃子）」と呼ばれるようだ。
In the bar, I make it from scratch, but this version is made using Vietnamese paper (spring roll wrappers) and made into stick dumplings for easy wrapping so that it can be easily made at home. There are two types of Chinese dim sum that are similar to Japanese fried dumplings (Japanese style dumplings): the type that is wrapped like Japanese dumplings is called "pan-tsuke (iron pan dumplings)" and the type that is rolled into a stick is called "sen-jiao (stick dumplings)".
Today's Ingredients:
今日の素材：
越南米紙（ライスペーパー）
餃子の餡（お好きな中身）※
油
※ ここでは、ニラ饅頭の餡を流用している。以前の記事を参照してください。
Vietnamese rice paper
Dumpling filling (any filling you like)*
Oil
*Here, we use the filling from Chinese chive buns. Please refer to the previous article.
procedure:
つくり方:
越南米紙を濡らす。
包丁で半分に切り、用意した餡を乗せてくるくる巻く。
油を敷いたフライパンに並べて熱し、表と裏に焦げ目を付ける。
そこに水を注ぎ、蓋をして蒸し焼きにする。
水分がなくなったら、もう一度油を注いでパリッとさせて出来上がり。
Wet the Vietnamese rice paper.
Cut it in half with a knife, place the prepared filling on top and roll it up.
Place in a frying pan with oil and heat until browned on both sides.
Pour in water, cover and steam.
Once the water has evaporated, pour in oil again and let it crisp up.
ヒントとバリエーション
Recipe tips and variation
米紙は、湿気を与えて時間が経つと、柔らかくなりすぎるので、一分経ったら、早めに巻く必要がある。
ここでは、ニラの餡を使ったが、好みの具材を使うと良い。
饅頭のように成形して蒸しても良いし、雲呑のように成形して揚げても良い。米紙は様々な大きさの製品があるので、使い分けると良い。
If rice paper is left moist for a long time it will become too soft, so it needs to be rolled up quickly after one minute.
Here we used chive filling, but you can use your favorite filling.
You can shape it like a bun and steam it, or shape it like a wonton and deep fry it. Rice paper comes in a variety of sizes, so it is best to use different sizes depending on the purpose.
Guide to where to get ingredients and equipment 材料と機材の入手先ガイド
※Amazonのアフェリエイトに参加しています。もしご購入の際はここからクリックしてご購入いただけると、コーヒー代の足しになるので、嬉しいです。ちなみに僕はコーヒー依存症です。
*I participate in Amazon affiliate programs. If you purchase this product by clicking here, it will help pay for my coffee, so I would be very happy. By the way, I am addicted to coffee.
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