S'ACCAPAU×一心鮨光洋 collaboration dinner 後編 Report2019.01.24@S'ACCAPAU
Collaboration dinner report 『S’ACCAPAU+Isshinzushi KOYO』 Part 2
開店直前の慌ただしい時間。店内にリズム打つハウスミュージックに被さるように、端正に研がれた和包丁が小気味よく動く。板前白衣とコックコートを纏うスタッフが入り混じり、立ち回る。
その様子は一見ちぐはぐに見えて、いやだからこその、奇妙なグルーヴ感が醸し出されている。
Just before the restaurants’ collaboration dinner started, everyone was busy preparing in the kitchen. A sharpened kitchen knife cut ingredients rhythmically, as if dancing along to the house music inside the restaurant. Chefs from Isshinzushi were dressed in white Itamae coats (the uniform of a chef of Japanese cuisine) and chefs from S’ACCAPAU, also in their chef coats, were busy running around this way and that.
It looked like they did not have any connection with each other, but actually they were all working together and there was a kind of groovy atmosphere happening.
クリエイティブイタリアン「サッカパウ」と、宮崎が誇る名店「一心鮨 光洋」による、国やジャンルを横切るコラボディナー。イベントの模様をお届けしよう。
「まさに今、宮崎のお店で出している食材を持参しました。サッカパウさんの力を借りて、ふだんできないような、モダンな形でお出ししたいと思います」
The creative Italian restaurant S’ACCAPAU and the outstanding Japanese restaurant Isshinzushi Koyo, which is a pride of Miyazaki, held a collaboration dinner to eliminate barriers between different food genres and countries. Here, in Part 2, I will tell you how it went.
”We brought with us the same exact ingredients that we utilize at our restaurant in Miyazaki right now. We are going to cook them in an unusually modern style with the help of S’ACCAPAU, and serve them to the customers.”
磨き上げられたワイングラスに負けじと！期待に目を輝かせる客に挨拶するのは「一心鮨 光洋」の店主、木宮一光さん。アウェイの現場ゆえ緊張してる？と思いきや、意外とのびのびとした表情。「顔なじみの方も多いですし、ここは僕らと同じカウンター商売なので」。そう！まさに「サッカパウ」の特徴でもあるカウンター内の広いオープンキッチン。そこに親和性を感じているようだ。
Kazumitsu Kimiya, manager of Isshinzushi Koyo gave an opening speech.
The customers’ bright eyes were full of expectation. Was Mr. Kimiya nervous being in an unfamiliar kitchen? No, he looked surprisingly relaxed. “It is because I can see familiar faces and this floor layout with the counter here is just the same as ours.” Exactly! The wide-open kitchen on the other side of the counter is characteristic of both Isshinzushi and S’ACCAPAU. He felt comfortable with this similarity.
のっけから出てきたのは珍味の王様、キャビア。これを、パルメザンチーズを薄く焼いたイタリアのクロカンテに乗せていただく。職人が自らチョウザメの卵を塩漬けしたというキャビアは、塩気がほどよく、上品な味わい。
The first dish was caviar, the king of delicacies, on an Italian croccante, a thin and crispy baked parmesan cheese. The caviar that the chef marinated, shark eggs in salt, tasted very elegant.
続いて登場したのは、宮崎産ヤイト鰹の現代風タタキ。桜チップで燻製しガラスジャーに閉じ込めた状態でサーブ、開けるとモワッと煙立つ演出、だけでなく！味わいふくめて、まさにイリュージョン。スモーキーな風味、パリッパリに焼いた皮目の香ばしさが、鰹独特の鉄っぽい旨味を、みるみる引き立たせてくれる。
Next up was Yaito bonito caught in Miyazaki and lightly roasted over cherry wood chips and served in a glass jar. When the jar was opened, the smoke billowed out. This performance with the jar, including the umami taste, was just like an illusion. The smoky flavor and crunchy skin helped the bonito’s iron-like flavor become even tastier.
続いて流れるように、泳ぐように盛り付けた、極めて希少な淡水魚ホンモロコのフリット。そこに水紋よろしくガリのピューレが添えられる。こんな細かなところにも、コラボの醍醐味をしっかりしたためる。
Then came a fritter made from a very rare freshwater fish, Honmoroko, served as if it was swimming. Ginger puree was added like a ripple. You could see the advantage of this collaboration dinner in such details.
好奇心をゆさぶり、盛大にくすぐってくる！そんな「サッカパウ」が得意とする食の提案は「一心鮨 光洋」側も負けていない。たとえば宮崎産平鯛の刺身。ともに供される、ほんのり透けたピンクのこれ、実はすだちで湿らせた岩塩プレート。ここに刺身を両面付けて、ひと口。二週間熟成させたというとろとろの白身と塩、そこに樽熟成させたオレンジワイン、この三位一体感たるや！
Each dish aroused the customers’ curiosity!! That is the style that S’ACCAPAU is good at, but Isshinzushi Koyo is also very creative. For example, they served a raw flat fish caught in Miyazaki. This fish was served with a lightly transparent pink salt slab and included sudachi juice, a kind of citrus fruit. Customers were instructed to dip both sides of their sashimi on this salt before eating it. Two week old aged white fish, salt, and orange wine aged in a cask matched perfectly!
そう、忘れてはならぬ。「一心鮨 光洋」店主にしてソムリエの木宮さんが仕掛ける、ワインのペアリングも絶好調！続く玄界灘ワタリガニのパスタには、ぶどうのタネや皮も一緒に漬け込んだ北イタリアの白をチョイス。香りはほの甘く、口当たりはドライ。「冬のほうが圧倒的に身が甘い」という濃厚なカニに、バッチリぴったり添わせてくる。
「食べて、何が残るか。僕のペアリングは、その余韻にしっかり飲み頃を迎えたワインを合わせていく。ナチュールとかクラシックとか、軽く超越したところでいい時間を過ごしてもらえるように」
そう語る木宮さんのプレゼンテーションに「ハレの舞台、頑張れ！」とでも言いたげに、微笑ましく耳を傾ける常連客たち。「なんだか参観日の生徒みたい」と、照れながらもうれしそう。
We shouldn’t forget that Mr. Kimiya, manager and sommelier at Isshinzushi, created perfect wine pairings too! To match a pasta with blue crab caught in the sea of Genkai, he chose a white wine from North Italy that was aged with the whole pulp, including the peel and kernels. This wine had a little sweet smell and dry taste. It went so well with the rich taste of the blue crab, of which it has been said “tastes much sweeter in winter.”
“When I make a wine pairing, I am thinking about how customers will feel after they’ve tasted each course. I will choose well-aged wine for example, classic or natural, because I believe that such an aged wine complements the warm afterglow feeling customers have after a delicious meal.”
Regulars were smiling and listening to Mr. Kimiya’s presentation as if to say, “It is your day. Good luck!” Mr. Kimiya was bashful, but he looked happy and said, “It feels like I am a student on the parents’ observation day.”
宮崎のお店では、焼きで提供している大分産の天然虎河豚白子はフリットにして、イベント用に再構築。地元の名焼酎「百年の孤独」でお馴染みの黒木本店が水耕栽培したクレソンのリゾットを合わせた。クリーミーでコクがある白子に対する苦みのエッセンスで、バランスとリズムを。
Soft roe, or shirako, from a natural tiger pufferfish caught in Oita is usually served grilled at Isshinzushi Koyo. It was specially arranged into a fritter for this event. The fritter came with watercress risotto. Kuroki Honten, which produces a well-known, local, popular shochu named “Hyakunen no Kodoku,” provided the watercress, which was cultivated by hydroponics. The bitterness from the watercress mixed with the creamy and rich flavor of the shirako became tastier together, with a good balance.
だしを注いで仕上げる甘鯛の焼き物は、炭の香ばしさと独特の旨味が絶妙。そこにぶつけたワインが、さらにさらに超絶妙。「こんな組み合わせ、どうやったら思いつくんだろう」というつぶやきが、どこからか聞こえてくる。
そして、いよいよお待ちかね！の、握りタイム。
The grilled tile fish, finished with dashi soup, contained the great combination of grilled aroma and its characteristic umami flavor. Even the wine pairing was awesome. “How could he come up with such a pairing,” someone was whispering.
Finally, it was time for nigiri, sushi shaped by hand.
料理長の空久保さんが、ずずいとカウンターの最前に寄り、上村さんがテーブル席までワゴンを持ち込み、客の眼前で熟れたパフォーマンスを繰り広げる。寿司屋では見慣れた光景だけれども、空間が違うというだけで、こんなにもドキドキうっとり、見惚れてしまうのはなぜだろう。
そこからはトントントンと、リズミカルに至福のひとときが続く。
The executive chef Mr. Sorakubo showed up in front of the counter, while Mr. Kamimura came around to each table with the wagon unit. Then their performance got started. Even though this is a familiar sight in a sushi restaurant, my heart beat faster from the excitement and I wondered why it felt much more fascinating at this collaboration dinner than it normally does.
The rhythmical sounds of cutting and chopping were happily heard everywhere.
細かく細かく刃を入れた水イカは、心底昇天レベルのねっとり感。
A very thin cut water squid had a rich texture.
苦手な輩も虜にする漬けエビは、人生を一変させるしっとり感。
その他、削った柚子ををはさんだり、松前漬けにしたり。手の込んだ繊細な仕事が詰まった鮨と、貴腐の混ざったソーヴィニヨンブランとの恍惚のバランスに、胸の奥まで熱く酔いしれる。旨味の大観覧車が、口の中をゆっくり愉快にめぐる。握る手も、握られた鮨も、こうごうしく輝いている。
Extremely tender marinated shrimp destroyed existing conventions. Even people who dislike shrimp could be won over.
Other nigiri served included one which featured shaved yuzu in between the fish and rice and another featuring fish marinated with matsumaezuke, a kind of pickle. Customers were fascinated by the perfect combination of that unique sushi shaped by skillful hands, and the Sauvignon Blanc, which had a rich and mellow flavor. An umami flavor was swirling inside the mouth, slowly and pleasantly, just like a big Ferris wheel. The chefs’ technique and their nigiri creations were both amazing.
と、ここで終わりと思いきや、伊勢海老を20匹（！）使ってだしをとった味噌汁で、旨みのダメ押し。
デザートには、宮崎産完熟キンカンたまたまのジュレでさっぱり。
The dinner course was not finished yet. The last dish was miso soup, based on a dashi full of umami flavor from 20(!) Japanese spiny lobster. These chefs would never cut corners on their work, even to the very end.
Customers were refreshed by a jelly made of fully ripened Miyazaki kumquats, called “Tamatama,” for dessert.
持ち帰り用のバラ寿司で「自分だけ、こんなに幸せな思いをしていいのだろうか」という罪悪感を相殺。
思わずスタンディングオベーションしたくなるような、完璧な一夜だった。それをガッチリ裏付ける、参加者の興奮混じりのコメントを最後に紹介しよう。
「文句のつけようがないくらいおいしかった！大将から宮崎の話も聞けたので、いつか絶対行こうと思いました」（サッカパウ常連のお客様・男性）
「ただおいしくて楽しいだけじゃなく、すべてに意外性があって、新しくて、勉強になりました」（ソムリエ・女性）
「メニューの組み立てや、ワインとの相性もよくて、和と洋なのに、自然にどっちにも入っていける感じ」（飲食関係・女性）
「すごく考え抜かれてますね。それぞれに個性のある有名なお店なのに、おたがいのいいところを引き出そうとしている。尊敬しているから、こそなんでしょうね」（ワイン会社・女性）
Barazushi, a type of sushi with a variety of ingredients sprinkled on the rice, was prepared for take out so that customers could eliminate their sense of guilt from family members who were jealous and waiting for them at home.
It was the perfect night. Everyone was about to give a standing ovation. Here are some comments from participants expressing their excitement.
”Everything was super delicious! There is nothing to say. The chef told me about Miyazaki. I would love to go there someday.” (male customer)
“The dishes were not only delicious and fun, but also each dish had an unexpected quality and something new. I learned a lot from them.” (sommelier, female)
“The menu was well-planned. The wine pairing was also good. Even if they were from different food genres, Japanese and Italian, it didn’t feel strange and I could enjoy both of them.” (food and beverage industry, female)
“Everything was well-considered. Even if both of restaurants were popular and unique, they were trying to cooperate and bring out the best in the other. They must respect each other.” (wine industry, female)
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〔SHOP DATA〕
一心鮨 光洋
宮崎県宮崎市昭和町21
TEL：0985‐60‐5005
https://instagram.com/isshinzushi_official
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〔SHOP DATA〕
S'ACCAPAU
東京都港区西麻布1丁目12－4
nishiazabu1124ビル B1F
TEL：03‐6721‐0935
https://www.instagram.com/saccapau_official
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［制作会社］
デザイン・リンクス株式会社
東京都渋谷区広尾1丁目1-20 グレース広尾202
TEL.03‐6450-5768