GIP LEVEL 3 - DAY 4: 100種類の香料嗅ぎ分け特訓４ (No.57-79)
フランスのグラースにある調香学校、Grasse Institute of Perfumeryのレベル３クラスを受講しました。その授業の記録です。
7月15日（木）24:00
4日目。昨日の続きです。
新しい香料100種類をひたすらブラインドで嗅ぎ、香りを表現しながら何の香料かを考えていくトレーニングをしています。
こちらには香りの特徴をメモします。
Raw Materials 100
#57 Beeswax absolute Middle/Base
warm, honey like, herbaceous, tobacco aspect, hay like, baked apple, smoky, heavy, waxy, chocolate, powdery broom like
€2000/kg
0.02-1%
Rose, Mimosa, Jasmine, Narcissusと相性良い
#58 Ambrettolide Base
musky, alcoholic, floral, fruity, white, powdery, rosy, violet, pear, seedy
€200/kg
0.02-2%
diffusive!
#59 α-Terpineol Top
citrusy, lemony, cleansing product, soapy, clean, ozonic, fresh airy, lime like, terpenic, piny, floral lilac
€20-30/kg
0.1-5%
#60 Florol Middle
musky, soapy, clean, fresh, floral, transparent, ozonic, muguet, rosy direction
€20-30/kg
0.5-10%
#61 Phenylacetaldehyde Middle
almondy, fruity cherry, benzaldehyde, powdery, floral, green stem like, fruity green, strong, sweet honey like, narcissus like, hyacinth, green leafy family, peachy
€20-40/kg
0.01-1%
#62 Cedryl Acetate Base
metallic, sparkling, dry, woody, cedarwood like, warm, smoky, leathery
€50-60/kg
1-2%
Cedarwood Virginia replacer
#63 Clove Bud Middle/Base
spicy, eugenol like, sweet, fruity dried plum, floral carnation like, hot wine like, dry, powdery
€60-90/kg
#64 Taget oil Middle
fruity, pineapple like, apple, mango, slightly minty, cooling, warm, diffusive, sweet&bitter, alcoholic, metallic, green, herbal, dried fig, tobacco like
€200-300/kg
#65 Hexyl Acetate Top
fruity apple like, pear, apple, banana, green, fresh, sweet
€10-15/kg
0.02-10%
rose, jasmineと相性良い
#66 Cis-Jasmone Middle/Base
powdery, lactonic, woody, sweet&salty, intense, floral jasmine tuberose, green, powdery, celery like, intense
€100/kg
0.02-2%
Jasmine GとSambacでCis-Jasmoneの含有率が大きく異なる。（下記参照）
Jasmine G= 7.90-9.45% Jasmine S= 0.45%
#67 Geranium oil (China) Middle
floral rosy, sweet, green minty, lemony citric, lychee, herbal, rose oxide like
Egypt ---> geraniol, linalool
China ---> green, minty, citronella like (less expensive)
#68 Cumin Seed Oil Middle
cumin like, spicy, sweaty, anisic, shiso like, powdery, terpenic, heavy, herbaceous
€150-200/kg
bring sensual aspect
#68 Fir Balsam absolute Base
sweet, powdery, fruity, caramellic, piny, conipherous, sugary, ambery, so complex, syrupy
€2000/kg
0.02-1%
Rosalie loves this❤︎
#70 Aldehyde C12 MNA Top/Middle
aldehyde, peeling, sparkling, metallic, intense, soapy, fatty, strong, sharp, citrusy mandarine peel like, slightly piny
€20-30/kg
0.01-0.2%
cf. C10 ---> more citrusy
#71 Styrax Honduras oil Middle
gasoline, petroleum like, strong, intense, uncomfortable, oily, very phenolic, burned plastic aspect, medicinal, cinnamic, sensual
€5000-6000/kg
0.02-1%
#72 Lilial Middle/Base
watery, marine, floral, water melon like, similar to florol, muguet, green aspect, petaly, fresh, delicate, transparent, powdery, soapy
€14/kg
allergenとtoxicityの問題で、もう少しで使用禁止になるかも
#73 Isoamyl acetate Top
strong, fruity banana, nail polish, ethereal
€30-50/kg
0.02-3%
jasmineと相性良い
overdoseすると不安定
#74 Exaltolide Middle/Base
musky, calm, soapy, powdery, soapy, fruity, floral violet like, baby skin aspect
€50-70/kg
これだけで完成しているような良い香り
#75 Suederal (Base) Base
real leather, suede, slightly earthy, warm, intense
0.01-0.02%
#76 Cinnamic Aldehyde Middle/Base
spicy, cinnamic, warm, powdery, fruity almondy, intense
€10-20/kg
0.01-0.03%
#77 Liffarome Top/Middle
fruity fig like, green, grassy, apple pear peach like, juicy, violet family, intense
€100-150/kg
#78 Siberian pine oil Top/Middle
fresh, woody, cooling, aromatic, camphoraceous, complex, wood+rosemary, piny, resinous
€50-80/kg
#79 Melonal Top
aldehydic, sparkling, watermelon like, metallic, fatty, ozonic, fruity family, watery green, cucumbery
€40/kg
0.01-0.02%
melonal+calone+ethyl maltol = watermelon
つづく