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Tateyama Kurobe Alpine Route. No.1 Murodo

Since moving to Toyama in 2019, I’ve been captivated by the beauty of Tateyama, especially "Murodo," which I’ve visited again and again—this time marks my 10th visit.

It’s been about a year and a half since my last trip in May 2023, and I could feel my Murodo energy running low. So, for the past few weeks, I’ve been closely watching the weather forecast and my schedule, hoping for a clear day to make a day trip. Finally, on October 1st, I was blessed with perfect weather.

The Tateyama Kurobe Alpine Route is an incredible experience accessible by various types of transport, including cable cars and buses. Even if you’re not into mountain climbing, you can still enjoy the stunning mountain views. It’s wonderful to see so many visitors, from wheelchair users to elderly people with walking sticks, enjoying the area at their own pace.

Depending on the season, you can book your cable car and other transportation online through the official website until 3 PM the day before. It’s easier to plan your day if you make reservations.

Now, let’s talk about my sunny-day stroll in Murodo. I was greeted with an unbelievably clear blue sky.


Mikurigaike Pond is about a 15-20 minute hike from Murodo Station when the weather is clear. (It can take longer if there’s snow.) Nearby, there’s Mikurigaike Onsen (Hot spring), a lodge that offers a unique experience.

Mikurigaike Onsen is the highest natural hot spring in Japan at an altitude of 2,410 meters. It features 100% sulfur-rich, cloudy white water that flows directly from the source. You can enjoy a day bath, as well as meals at the restaurant or cafe. I’ve stayed here before, and the breathtaking views of the sunrise, sunset, sea of clouds, and starry skies are unforgettable.

Today, I recharged with a coffee break at the cafe before continuing my walk. Surrounded by mountains and with the beautiful blue Mikurigaike Pond nearby, I love enjoying coffee and zenzai (sweet red bean soup) in this peaceful spot. It’s moments like these that make me feel so grateful to be here.

The zenzai with mochi and coffee (Mikurigaike blend) were perfect together. The red bean paste here, if I remember correctly, is from "Nanakoshi," a popular place for its Obanyaki  named Nanakoshi-yaki (Japanese pancakes filled with sweet bean paste) near Toyama Station. The sweetness is just right—perfect for an energy boost.

Enjoying zenzai with this amazing view is unbeatable.

My family had an anko (sweet red bean paste)-butter toast and coffee, which also looked delicious.

The autumn leaves had already begun to change colors at Murodo.


There were many fluffy seeds of the alpine plant Chinguruma.
Chinguruma plant and the mountains.
The yellow leaves of Iwaicho, a plant that resembles ginkgo leaves, are another sign of autumn in Tateyama.

The weather was clear today, and I was lucky to see the sharp ridgelines of Mt. Tsurugi, one of the most difficult mountains to climb. It’s always exciting to see Mt. Tsurugi up close, a mountain I usually admire from afar in Toyama City.

By the way...

Here’s a brief history of my Tateyama Kurobe Alpine Route trips:

  • As a child (probably around elementary school age), I visited from Kanagawa and likely reached Kurobe Dam from the Nagano side.

  • October 20, 2019: My first visit to Murodo after moving here.

  • November 30, 2019: Visited on the last day of the season—snow and clear skies.

  • Late June 2020: Visited the famous "Snow Corridor."

  • Late October 2020: An overnight stay in Murodo.

  • Mid-October 2021: One night in Murodo and one night in Midagahara—Enjoyed sunrises, sunsets, and starry skies.

  • November 20, 2021: An overnight stay in Murodo on the day of the lunar eclipse.

  • September 12-13, 2022: One night in Midagahara.

  • November 22-23, 2022: One night in Murodo.

  • May 11, 2023: A day trip to Kurobe Dam via Sky Bus from Toyama Station.

  • October 1, 2024: A day trip to Kurobe Dam.

And my latest journey on the Kurobe Alpine Route is far from over—stay tuned for part two!

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