The Suit as a Mirror of Aesthetic Ideals: Unveiling Its Inner Workings
The suit will celebrate its 360th anniversary next year. Its origins trace back to 1666, when King Charles II of England issued a declaration of clothing reform, introducing the vest as "a garment to teach nobility thrift." This marked the birth of what we now recognize as the prototype of the modern suit. While its form has evolved over the centuries, the fundamental structure of the suit—a jacket, waistcoat, trousers, shirt, and tie—remains unchanged.
From the late 18th century onward, suits predominantly adopted dark colors. Compared to the dramatic transformations of women’s fashion, men’s attire appeared subdued and monotonous, leading to what some called "The Great Male Renunciation." This theory, proposed by psychologist John Flügel in the 1930s, posited that men had renounced beauty and ornamentation, entrusting them to women while focusing on functionality. However, a closer examination of the structure of men’s clothing reveals how superficial this theory truly is.
Beneath the suit’s surface lies a profound narrative. When one dissects its components and examines its interior, it becomes evident that tailors, armed with remarkable craftsmanship, have long pursued ideals of masculine beauty that align with the times. From the so-called "renunciation" to the modern era, the suit has continued to reflect societal contexts, all while striving to embody beauty within its hidden intricacies.
This rich history of the suit has been brought to light thanks to the work of "clothing specimen maker" Akira Hasegawa. Hasegawa dissects historical garments, revealing their internal structures through his unique “Demi-Deconstruction Exhibitions.” By creating patterns from the dismantled pieces, he also reproduces these historical garments using modern fabrics, allowing people to experience what they felt like to wear.
After working as a pattern maker for an apparel company, Hasegawa became independent in 2016. A pivotal moment in his life came when, out of curiosity, he deconstructed an early 20th-century firefighter’s uniform. Inside, he discovered hidden layers of interfacing sewn with extraordinary craftsmanship, supporting the garment’s exterior. Struck by this revelation, Hasegawa made it his mission to "convey the emotions of 100 years ago to the people 100 years from now." He began acquiring historic clothing, dating as far back as the French Revolution, from Europe, deconstructing them, and turning them into clothing specimens for exhibitions.
Through these deconstructed garments, the evolving significance of the suit over time becomes clear.
In the early 19th century, suits were constructed by shaping flat fabrics into three-dimensional forms using padding. Multiple layers of linen interfacing were meticulously added to create a pronounced, chest-forward posture. This idealized physique, resembling that of ancient Greek sculptures, reflected the aesthetic aspirations of men during the Neoclassical era.
Deconstructed garments reveal the evolving significance of the suit across different eras.
In the early 19th century, suits were crafted by transforming flat fabrics into three-dimensional forms through strategic padding. Layers of linen interfacing were stacked meticulously to create a chest-forward, arched posture—an ideal physique reminiscent of ancient Greek sculptures, which men of the Neoclassical period aspired to emulate.
When worn, these suits exerted a corrective, almost architectural effect on the body. The shoulders were pulled back, producing a commanding chest and shoulder line. This dramatic silhouette could be adjusted through the buttoning system. Fastening the buttons caused the chest to appear fuller, while leaving them open allowed for a softer, more natural contour. In this way, the act of buttoning instantly projected the dignity and authority of the wearer’s social class.
By the 1830s, tailoring techniques experienced significant advancements. The number of darts increased dramatically, allowing for greater precision in shaping garments. Additionally, innovations in ironing techniques enabled tailors to stabilize seams while sculpting lines that closely followed the contours of the body, further refining the elegance of the suit.
The driving force behind the evolution of tailoring techniques during this period was the emergence of dandyism. The dandies, led by figures like Beau Brummell, the era’s cultural icon, championed the ideal of suits crafted from plain, achromatic fabrics with impeccable cuts and fits that highlighted the body’s natural lines. By embodying this ideal themselves, they demonstrated its power and influence.
The relationship between the dandies, who placed exceptionally demanding orders, and the tailors, who rose to meet these challenges, was one of creative tension. Under this dynamic collaboration, British suits became increasingly refined. Rules for appropriate attire—dictated by time, place, and occasion—became stricter, requiring both knowledge and sophistication from the wearer.
As the British Empire expanded, the suit, along with its associated codes of conduct, spread across the globe, cementing its role as a universal symbol of style and propriety.
A detail that epitomizes the craftsmanship of tailors from this era is the "M-notch." The notch in the lapel was intricately shaped like an M—a design both elaborate and seemingly unnecessary. Why such complexity? According to Hasegawa, "Perhaps tailors created this challenging detail simply to showcase their skill, much like embroiderers display their artistry." His interpretation carries weight, as it suggests an endearing glimpse of the tailors’ passion for beauty and ornamentation breaking through the otherwise restrained exterior of the suit.
The 1850s brought two transformative innovations to the world of suits: the invention of the sewing machine and the rise of department stores. These developments enabled the mass production of suits, marking their shift from a symbol of the upper class to a garment accessible to the working masses. During this period, the lounge suit emerged, replacing the rigid, triangular silhouette of earlier styles with a softer structure, achieved by inserting just a single layer of linen interfacing. The suit evolved from a marker of aristocracy to an everyday uniform for the working class.
The lounge suit continued to develop, culminating in the introduction of the drape cut in the 1930s. This design added fullness to the back and slightly nipped the waist to create a V-shaped upper body silhouette, achieving both ease of movement and elegance. This innovation laid the foundation for the modern suit as we know it today.
And now, in the modern era, comfort and practicality have become the primary focus of suit design, with styles increasingly adapted to everyday life. Some suits even promise the comfort of pajamas. Yet, within the details of a tailor-made suit—particularly the treatment of its interfacing—lies the wisdom cultivated over centuries. “Using interfacing is the tailor’s way of shaping the wearer’s body to align with their ideal vision,” Hasegawa explains. The countless innovations and passion of artisans striving to create beauty that resonates with the times continue to be passed down through generations.
The suit is far from being a dull, uninspired garment born out of men’s supposed renunciation of beauty and ornamentation. A closer look inside reveals how men have continually refined their aesthetic sensibilities in response to changing times. Even today, the tailcoat—a relic of the Brummell era—remains a staple of formal occasions. At first glance, all tailcoats may appear identical in plain black, but their true value emerges when adorned with medals. It is only when a man has earned the right to display such distinctions that the tailcoat reveals its full potential. This discreetly macho privilege—an understated claim to superiority—may not be something openly discussed, but it quietly sustains the suit’s enduring appeal across centuries.
Original article: