The Myth of "The Great Renunciation": A New Form of Masculine Luxury
When reading old type of histories of Western fashion, one often comes across the idea that men underwent what has been termed “The Great Renunciation” of elaborate dress. However, men never truly "renounced" anything. While colours may have become more subdued and variation less conspicuous, this was not abandonment—it was a transition into a new dimension of dressing.
This shift brought stricter rules regarding attire, with more meticulous distinctions dictated by time, place, and occasion. The number of required accessories increased, transforming dressing into an art that demanded knowledge and sophistication. Fashion for men did not disappear; it evolved into something far more nuanced and exclusive.
The aristocracy, with most members serving in some military capacity, exemplifies this. Military uniforms alone could encompass over 80 variations, each tailored to specific occasions and accompanied by a range of accessories. Some included elaborate items like the "scarlet mess jacket," while the most formal uniforms were nothing short of opulent. These outfits demanded the highest level of craftsmanship, with cutting, fabrics, tailoring, and design reflecting the pinnacle of contemporary artistry.
Furthermore, these garments gained prestige through decorations—medals and honours—making them more than just clothes; they were markers of personal achievement. Wearing such attire was reserved for those with the appropriate credentials, reinforcing a quiet exclusivity built on superior quality and technical skill.
What men embraced was not the rejection of elegance but the adoption of a new kind of luxury. It was not a retreat from splendour but an evolution toward a more subtle, status-driven opulence—one where the finest materials and impeccable tailoring converged with personal merit to define a man's place in society.
