Local Artisans Soar Globally: Tamiya Raden in Tango
I was captivated by the new creations at the exhibition of "MIZEN," a brand that places traditional Japanese industries at its forefront. The works featured fabrics inlaid with raden (mother-of-pearl inlay). They shimmered with iridescent hues under the light, transforming the atmosphere into an ethereal realm.
The raden textiles were crafted by Mr. Kyoji Tamiya of "Tamiya Raden" in Tango, Kyoto Prefecture. I visited his workshop. While raden inlay, which involves delicately shaving the pearly layer inside shells to decorate wood or lacquer surfaces, is found worldwide, raden textiles, where this material is made into thread and woven into silk, are unique. This singular technique was devised in the 1970s by the founder, Mr. Katsuichiro Tamiya, over the course of two years, utilizing the hiki-haku (metal-leaf thread) technique.
The second-generation craftsman, Mr. Kyoji Tamiya, has further developed the art, successfully integrating materials such as wood, leather, and mirror film into threads. By evolving traditional techniques, he continuously creates innovative textiles that brim with a sense of futurism.
These cutting-edge textiles are used not only for kimonos and bags but also in Paris Haute Couture collections and luxury watch dials. Although collaborating with many Western brands, the initial foray into Paris began in 2006. After overcoming numerous challenges, their leap forward was marked by an exhibit at the special booth of Premiere Vision in 2013. Since then, they have refined their techniques and developed new materials. While traditional crafts often evoke the image of preserving perfected techniques, Mr. Tamiya views his work as an ongoing evolution.
Fabric is crafted by Tamiya Raden
In Kyoto, artisans have traditionally taken an active role, creating products through equal interaction with their clients. This collaborative process has honed their skills and aesthetic sense. It is within this process that the essence of craftsmanship lies, and it is this tradition that has endured through the ages.
Innovative beauty emerges when artisans and clients collaborate as partners, each with a sense of agency. This collaboration not only fosters sustainable industry development but also ensures that the craftsmen of the region are recognized as esteemed creators rather than mere suppliers of materials. As global luxury brands increasingly seek high-value Japanese textiles, it is crucial that these artisans are acknowledged as distinguished creators, thus bridging tradition into the future.
Original article in Japanese: