Luxury Fashion After Covid-19: Resetting and Creating Culture and Community
＜Quiet Luxury That Reset Logo Worship＞
In the realm of fashion, particularly in the top-tier luxury segment, there is a keen sensitivity to changes in the times. Following the COVID-19 pandemic, consumers' sense of value has transformed, prompting fashion brands to adopt strategies that respond to and create new desires. Let's examine some prominent recent trends.
The practice of completely overhauling collections every six months to introduce "newness" and stimulate demand is being questioned. It is not unrelated to the criticism of environmental destruction caused by mountains of discarded clothing exported from developed countries to Africa. With more people suffering from wars and natural disasters, the superficial style of "logomania" that stirs excitement with collaborative products and conspicuous brand logos is now seen as insensitive and has quieted down.
Against this backdrop, the value of sustainability has come to the fore, shining a spotlight on high-quality, restrained, and timeless clothing. This rise of "Quiet Luxury" represents a reset from the chaotic logo worship pre-pandemic, gaining traction around 2022 and dominating the 2023 autumn-winter collections. It is more sophisticated and elegant than minimalism, and more refined than normcore. Brands known for high-quality tailoring using superior fabrics, such as The Row and Brunello Cucinelli, which emphasizes Italian craftsmanship and luxurious cashmere knitwear, have gained attention for their high quality and high prices.
By the time the 2024-25 autumn-winter collections emerge, the next phase of Quiet Luxury will be explored. Sabato De Sarno, appointed as Gucci's new designer, further updated the "quiet" taste, contrasting with his predecessor's decorative style. Brunello Cucinelli maintained its direction while introducing the concept of "Gentle Luxury," emphasizing mutual respect.
However, Quiet Luxury, which avoids flaunting brand logos but is of high quality and price, is not merely a transient trend. It is a style of "Stealth Wealth," continuously passed down among conservative wealthy individuals to avoid public resentment by not standing out. This taste is expected to persist within certain communities.
＜Fashion Brands Building Cultural Empires＞
On the other hand, as new designs of clothing and accessories and prominent logos lose their former appeal, some brands are clearly shifting towards establishing their identity by building their own cultural communities. Louis Vuitton Men's is a prime example.
In February 2023, Pharrell Williams was appointed as the creative director for Louis Vuitton Men's. Many might recall his 2014 hit song "Happy," which saw people dancing globally and became explosively popular. Despite his prominence in the music scene, Pharrell did not have formal education or significant experience in fashion. Though he collaborated in the streetwear domain, like launching "Billionaire Boys Club" with NIGO, he was not mainstream in the fashion industry, making his appointment a surprising move within the industry.
Pharrell's debut show for the 2024 spring-summer collection was held on the Pont Neuf, Paris's oldest bridge. The grand venue spanned the entire bridge, sealed off from the Seine River, attracting celebrities from around the world, resulting in a highly successful and "happy" collection. The show’s video garnered a billion views in two weeks. Pharrell's role was not only as a designer but also a producer, ambassador, and spokesperson connecting the brand with the celebrity community. Louis Vuitton effectively integrated the pop culture and celebrity sphere centered around Pharrell. With Nicolas Ghesquière leading the women's segment in high fashion, the synergy created by placing a culture king in the men's segment is expected to further elevate the brand's presence.
<LVMH: The World’s Largest Luxury Conglomerate>
The parent company, LVMH, is the world's largest luxury conglomerate, with Chairman Bernard Arnault vying with Elon Musk for the title of the world’s richest person. Initially involved in real estate in the 1980s, Arnault has spent 40 years acquiring over 70 luxury brands, incorporating art, street culture, and technology into the cultural sphere. Utilizing his real estate expertise, Arnault continuously acquired prime properties in Paris and New York to establish brand stores, enhancing the presence of subsidiary brands through new stores, show windows, and PR.
<Embracing K-Pop’s Massive Fandom>
In terms of collaborations with cultural icons, the strategy of appointing talent with a strong fanbase as brand ambassadors has become commonplace. The connection between high-end brands and K-Pop stars is particularly notable, with BLACKPINK members serving as ambassadors for top brands: Jisoo for Dior, Rosé for Saint Laurent, Lisa for Celine, and Jennie for Chanel. This approach allows brands to reach the massive fandoms behind these talents. Outside recent Paris and Milan collection venues, fans of the ambassadors, rather than the brands themselves, gather, spreading the brand’s product images through the photos shared on social media.
<Kering’s Entry into Entertainment Media>
The approach to the entertainment industry extends further. French luxury conglomerate Kering, which owns brands like Gucci, Balenciaga, Alexander McQueen, and Bottega Veneta, is moving towards establishing its own entertainment media. One of its brands, Saint Laurent, has set up its own filmproduction company, marking the first full-scale movie production by a fashion brand.
<Diesel’s Community Hub>
Resisting the cultural dominance created by massive capital, some fashion brands focus on local culture and individuality. Italian casual brand Diesel created the world's first community hub, "Diesel Studio," in Tokyo's Ginza, promoting local culture. In their 2024 autumn-winter show, Diesel featured a giant screen displaying 1,000 Diesel fans, showcasing their unique styles, which garnered significant attention. This effort aims to build a community through diverse local individuality and establish the brand’s unique culture.
While fashion has always been intertwined with culture, the cultural influence of fashion creators has grown even larger with the power of capital. It’s important to be aware of how such power shapes our values. Now is the time to quietly reflect on what kind of community we want to create and what culture we want to nurture.
＊Published Japanese article on Toyo Keizai Online (9/June/2024):