The Revival of Ushikubi Tsumugi (Part One): Keeping the Spirit of Tradition Alive
Discussions on how to preserve traditional crafts are gaining momentum across Japan. Reviving a tradition on the brink of extinction is no easy task, yet there are remarkable examples of success.
One such case is Ushikubi Tsumugi, a type of silk fabric produced in the Hakusan region of Ishikawa Prefecture. While it is commonly assumed that traditional crafts are preserved by families who pass them down through generations, Ushikubi Tsumugi was revived by a family that entered the field from the construction industry. I had the privilege of speaking with Mr. Hiroyuki Nishiyama, who produces Ushikubi Tsumugi at Hakusan Kobo and actively promotes its allure to the world.
The origins of Ushikubi Tsumugi date back approximately 800 years when it began as a side business for farmers in mountainous regions. The name "Ushikubi" comes from the local place name of a mulberry field where silkworms were raised. Traditionally, it utilized threads made by twisting two strands of silk from “double cocoons” (cocoons produced by two silkworms), which were once considered substandard. The fabric’s distinctive uneven texture and exceptional durability made it a popular choice for casual kimono.
Hiroyuki Nishiyama’s grandfather, Tetsunosuke Nishiyama, was engaged in sericulture. However, after World War II, changes in Japan's clothing industry led to the decline of sericulture. Tetsunosuke had to transition to working as a substitute teacher to make a living. The last company producing Ushikubi Tsumugi, Mizukami Kiyokobo, also went out of business. Mizukami, a close friend of Tetsunosuke, faced financial difficulties that Tetsunosuke could not alleviate. Meanwhile, Tetsunosuke’s ten children pursued careers in the construction industry, where demand was higher.
During Japan's post-war recovery, the construction industry provided a stable income for many, including the Nishiyama family. However, by the 1960s, Tetsunosuke Nishiyama began to feel a strong desire to revive the traditional craft of Ushikubi Tsumugi. At that time, only one elderly woman in the village was still weaving the fabric, and Tetsunosuke feared that the tradition would disappear if immediate action wasn’t taken. Driven by a sense of urgency, he gave his children, who were thriving in the construction business, a directive: “Revive Ushikubi Tsumugi.”
The family poured the profits from their construction business into the revival effort, investing heavily in preserving the weaving techniques and continuing production. Despite their success in passing down the skills and maintaining production, reopening the once-closed distribution channels proved extremely challenging. Selling the product remained difficult for years. Nevertheless, the Nishiyama family persevered, and by the 1970s, Ushikubi Tsumugi finally regained its presence in the market.
The turning point that brought widespread recognition to Ushikubi Tsumugi was the novel, ”Kaze no Bon Koi Uta”, by Naoki Prize-winning author Osamu Takahashi. The story features a scene where the protagonist purchases Ushikubi Tsumugi, and its subsequent adaptation into a television drama propelled the fabric into the spotlight. Another significant boost came from a collaboration with Kaga Yuzen. Although it was unconventional to combine the casual appeal of Tsumugi with the formal elegance of Yuzen, this fusion broke new ground. When instructors at kimono dressing schools endorsed it as suitable for semi-formal occasions, it gained wider acceptance, introducing innovation to the world of Tsumugi.
Through these developments, Ushikubi Tsumugi established its place alongside Oshima Tsumugi and Yuki Tsumugi as one of Japan’s "Three Great Tsumugi Fabrics."
The story of Ushikubi Tsumugi's revival is a testament to the enduring determination of those committed to preserving tradition. “Traditional crafts are a cornerstone of Japan’s and the region’s identity, as well as a source of pride and status,” Hiroyuki Nishiyama explains. Believing in the value of Ushikubi Tsumugi, the Nishiyama family made a resolute commitment to the long term, dedicating their efforts and investments to its revival. It was this unwavering determination that became the driving force behind connecting a thousand-year-old tradition to the future. (To be continued in Part Two.)
Original article in Japanese: