The "Saga" of Saga and Shigenobu Okuma

2021/07/23

Daimyo and painter

In the park that occupies the site of the former Saga Castle, there is a spacious and open area where you can enjoy a leisurely walk.

Within the park, there are historical, cultural, and art museums that showcase the achievements of many distinguished people from Saga who contributed to the modernization of Japan.

Near the castle gate, the bronze statue of Naomasa Nabeshima (Kan-sō), the tenth lord of the Saga Domain, catches the eye. He was a wise ruler who implemented fiscal reforms, expanded the domain's school, Kodo Kan, and utilized Western science and technology.

I visited Saga on a sunny day during the rainy season.

In addition, there is a bronze statue of Saburosuke Okada (1869-1939), a famous painter known for his Western-style and bijin-ga (beautiful women paintings), and his relocated studio next to the museum. Prior to my visit, my knowledge of Okada was limited to his work "Ayame no Koromo" (Iris Kimono), but at the museum, I was drawn to a screening of an old video showing Okada teaching Western-style painting to female students at his home studio. Despite being filmed almost 100 years ago, the expressions of the aspiring artists were vivid and comparable to those of modern women. Okada is also remembered as a progressive figure who supported women's various ways of life and social advancement. A native of Saga with study abroad experience in France, he later became a professor at the current Tokyo University of the Arts and was awarded the first Order of Culture.

What is the ranking of Saga's attractiveness?

The population of Saga Prefecture is about 800,000 people, while the population of Saga City is approximately 230,000 people. In terms of population size by prefecture or prefectural capital, Saga is the smallest in Kyushu. In terms of area, Saga is slightly larger than Tokyo, Kanagawa, and Osaka. The scenery visible from the train gives the impression of a vast plain. The Yayoi Period Yoshinogari Site, which caused a major boom in the debate over the location of the ancient country of Yamataikoku, is located in the prefecture, and its vast grounds can be seen from the train window.

Saga Prefecture is located in the northwest part of Kyushu, bordering Fukuoka Prefecture to the northeast and Nagasaki Prefecture to the southwest. It faces the Genkai Sea to the north and the Ariake Sea to the south, and the famous pottery towns of Karatsu, Imari, and Arita are located in the northern part of Saga Prefecture. It takes about 40 minutes by express train from Hakata to Saga City, making it relatively close. However, in a somewhat malicious ranking of prefectural attractiveness, Saga Prefecture has been towards the bottom in recent years. Locals may have their own opinions, but nationally, Saga is perhaps most well-known for the comedian Egashira 2:50. Other notable figures from Saga include actress Yasuko Matsuyuki and Softbank founder Masayoshi Son, who was born in the city of Tosu.

Satsu-Cho-Do-Hi and The Seven Wise Men

Although today Saga may not be as prominent compared to other prefectures, during the late Edo and early Meiji periods, it was one of the powerful domains known as "Satsuma-Choshu-Tosa-Hizen" or "Satsu-Cho-Do-Hi". The Saga domain in Hizen province had significant political influence, second only to Satsuma and Choshu, and was respected throughout Japan.

As you ride the bus from Saga Station to the site of Saga Castle, you'll notice bronze statues of the Seven Wise Men of Saga standing on the sidewalks.

The Seven Wise Men of Saga refer to seven individuals who followed the previous lord, Nabeshima Naomasa (1815-1871), namely, Shima Yoshitake (1822-1874, known for pioneering Hokkaido), Sano Tsunetami (1822-1902, founder of the Japanese Red Cross Society), Soejima Taneomi (1828-1905, foreign minister), Oki Takato (1832-1899, minister of education), Eto Shinpei (1834-1874, minister of justice), and Okuma Shigenobu (1838-1922, minister of finance). They were all influential figures during the late Edo and early Meiji periods and are highly respected by the people of Saga.

If there were a prefectural attractiveness ranking during this period, it is likely that Saga would have been in the top five nationwide with the branding of these Seven Wise Men.

Proximity to Nagasaki

At the end of the Edo period and during the Meiji Restoration, one of the reasons why the Saga Domain held a powerful position was its geographic proximity to Nagasaki.

During the Edo period, it was the responsibility of the Saga and the Kuroda domains of Fukuoka to defend Nagasaki, which served as a gateway for foreign trade. By the end of the Edo period, the shogunate had become sensitive to foreign vessels entering Japan's waters.

In this context, the Saga domain played a pioneering role in strengthening the country's coastal defenses by quickly building a blast furnace, constructing cannons and steamships. Interestingly, it seems that the Saga domain outperformed other domains by sending the largest number of talented individuals to the Nagasaki Naval Training Center (1855-1859), where many of the Meiji Restoration leaders, including Katsu Kaishu.

Furthermore, being close to Nagasaki allowed the powerful domain of Saga to quickly incorporate Western artifacts and the latest information, which they could use to their advantage in their governance and education of their youth.

Under the enlightened daimyo Nabeshima Naomasa, the domain established a Dutch learning academy within its own school, the Kodo Kan, and opened the English learning academy, Chien Kan, in Nagasaki. They actively encouraged their samurai youths to learn about Western social systems, medicine, physics, chemistry, and other subjects by inviting foreign lecturers to teach at the academies. Despite being known for his frugality, Naomasa spared no expense when it came to education. As a result, Saga domain produced numerous figures who played significant roles during the end of the Edo period and the Meiji period, maintaining their influence in the central government.

The common denominator among the seven wise men of Saga, whom I mentioned earlier, is that they all graduated from the domain school, Kodo Kan. It is worth noting that Kodo Kan was established at the end of the 18th century, preceding the Kodo Kan in Mito, which was well-known nationwide at the time. Additionally, it is worth mentioning that the education system was harsh, with the threat of a reduction in stipend for students who performed poorly academically.

The Okuma Memorial Museum

About a 5-minute walk from the site of Saga Castle, which was the residence of the Saga clan, there is a residential area where the samurai of the Saga clan used to live, and the birthplace of Shigenobu Okuma is located there. There is a memorial hall on this site where visitors can learn about the life of Okuma. In the courtyard facing his birthplace, there is a bronze statue of Okuma.

It is well-known that Okuma Shigenobu, was the founder of Waseda University. He played an active role as a bureaucrat and politician in the Meiji government and served as Prime Minister twice, but many people may not know this.

Moreover, few people may be aware that the tradition of the batter swinging and missing at the first pitch in baseball, as a way to show respect to the pitcher, actually originated with Okuma. Almost a century ago, the Waseda University baseball team hosted a friendly match with an American team. Okuma threw the first pitch despite his injured foot, but his ball missed the strike zone. The batter swung and missed as a sign of respect for Okuma and this is said to be the origin of the tradition.

Inside the memorial hall, there is a display of Okuma's large prosthetic right leg. When he was 51 years old and serving as Foreign Minister, he was hit by a bomb thrown by a right-wing activist while struggling to revise the unequal treaties. Although he survived the attack, he suffered a serious injury that resulted in the amputation of two-thirds of his right leg. Since then, the prosthetic leg became a part of Okuma's body for the rest of his life. It is not difficult to imagine how difficult it must have been for Okuma to prepare for the ceremonial first pitch with his prosthetic leg.

In the group of Seven Wise Men of Saga mentioned earlier, Okuma was the youngest in terms of age and lived the longest, and his influence was also outstanding.

Although Okuma did not leave behind an autobiography that he had written himself, he spoke about his life through recollections, speeches, and discussions. These were edited and compiled into two books, "Okuma Shigenobu Jijoden" and "Okuma Shigenobu Enzetsu Danwashu," by Waseda University.

From these books, let us follow the footsteps of Okuma, who lived through the periods of the Bakumatsu, Meiji, and Taisho eras, although it may be a bit long.

Okuma's Time as a Student

During his student years, Okuma studied Chinese and Western studies at the schools of the Saga Domain and the Nagasaki English School mentioned earlier.

Among the knowledge he gained from studying Western geography, history, politics, physics, and other subjects, he was particularly interested in the Dutch constitution after its independence from Spain and the American Declaration of Independence. From these, he reflected that he learned about liberal thought and constitutionalism.

In his early twenties, Okuma also deepened his studies of English in Nagasaki, where he learned about Christianity and the American constitution from foreign missionaries, including Mr. Fulbeck.

He learned practical Western knowledge of society, economics, military affairs, commerce, and trade, and became convinced that English studies, not Chinese classics, were necessary for the future.

Under the progressive educational environment of the Saga domain, Okuma was greatly influenced by new Western ideas. Since the arrival of the black ships in 1853, the world had become tumultuous, and among the students of the Saga domain, heated debates raged over the issue of expulsion or acceptance of foreigners. While studying Western knowledge, Okuma and his peers were preparing for their turn to play an active role in the new era.

As a bureaucrat, politician, and educator

Since his employment as a government official of the Meiji government at the age of 30 in 1868, remarkable achievements have been made by Okuma as a bureaucrat, politician, and educator.

His first demonstration of leadership was in negotiations with the powerful British envoy, Parks, over the lifting of the ban on Christianity. At that time, Okuma represented the government and held his ground, negotiating as an equal partner and refusing to back down, earning a reputation for himself. Okuma seized his first chance in his career, using his knowledge of Christianity and Western learning that he had acquired at the domain school and in Nagasaki.

Afterwards, he achieved many accomplishments in negotiations with foreign countries and worked on domestic issues such as land tax reform and promotion of industry. In 1870, at the age of 32, he became a member of the highest governing body of the country alongside other influential figures such as Okubo Toshimichi, Kido Takayoshi, Sanjo Sanetomi, and Iwakura Tomomi. After the Satsuma Rebellion, which saw the departure of many of the Meiji period's founding fathers, he climbed to the top position as a bureaucrat at the age of 40 in 1878. He continued to play a central role in the tumultuous early Meiji period, overseeing diplomacy, finance, and the economy for 13 years until his resignation following the political upheaval of 1881.

After stepping down from his position, Okuma established a political party and worked to open the parliament, tirelessly pushing for the realization of parliamentary politics. Through newspapers and speeches, he stirred up public opinion and paved the way for an era in which the people choose their own politicians through elections.

Furthermore, Okuma recognized the importance of independent scholarship and national education early on. In 1882, soon after his resignation, he established the Tokyo Senmon Gakko, which would later become Waseda University. Despite numerous difficulties, the school was recognized as a university, and Okuma, as its first president, honored the contributors to the establishment and operation of the university, including Azusa Ono and Eiichi Shibusawa, during the university's 35th anniversary ceremony in 1917. He also called for support in constructing the Okuma Auditorium. Additionally, Okuma supported the establishment of Japan Women's University and Doshisha University.

In summary, Okuma played a significant role in the construction of modern Japan as a bureaucrat, politician, and educator.

After nearly 30 years away from his hometown, Okuma returned to Saga at the age of 58 and visited several times in his later years, even attending the unveiling ceremony of the statue of the lord of the Saga domain, Naomasa Nabeshima. Okuma passed away at the age of 84, having lived a fulfilling life.

It is worth noting that next year will mark the 100th anniversary of his passing.

Yukichi Fukuzawa and Shigenobu Okuma

Now, let me digress a little bit and share a story that Okuma wrote about in his autobiography, regarding his encounter with the founder of Keio University, Yukichi Fukuzawa, and their subsequent friendship.

Okuma was about three years younger than Fukuzawa. Although they both had established their names in society and knew of each other, Okuma admits that he initially thought of Fukuzawa as a bit of an impertinent fellow. However, in 1874, they coincidentally met at a gathering and immediately opened up to each other like old friends, discussing various topics. They remained close friends for the rest of their lives and held mutual respect for each other.

Fukuzawa, on the other hand, did not hold a government position and kept his distance from politics, focusing instead on spreading Western ideas and fostering talented individuals in Meiji society.

However, as mentioned earlier, in the Meiji 14 political upheaval that led to Okuma's downfall, Fukuzawa and Okuma were seen as being of the same kind, with Fukuzawa being suspected of acting as Okuma's strategist and secretly manipulating things behind the scenes. Okuma jokingly talks about this in his autobiography.

For Okuma, Fukuzawa may have been one of the few close friends he could trust to talk about the situation at the time and Western affairs. The two often visited each other's homes and enjoyed drinking together.

Fukuzawa and Okuma were both born in Kyushu, but in different regions: Fukuzawa in Nakatsu City, Oita Prefecture on the eastern side of Kyushu, and Okuma in Saga City, Saga Prefecture on the western side. They both lost their fathers at a young age and were raised by philanthropic mothers who fostered their interest in Dutch and Western studies. They also had in common a lack of personal ambition, frank speech, and a tendency to make enemies.

Despite their different backgrounds, both Okuma and Fukuzawa left their rural hometowns and made significant contributions to the building of Japan's modern nation-state and the development of human resources. They both embarked on different paths, but in the end, they met at the common goal of nurturing capable individuals. The fact that they were from opposite sides of Kyushu and met under a shared purpose is a testament to the serendipity of history.

What lifted Okuma up?

Returning to the topic of Okuma, he wrote in his autobiography that his father, who was the chief of artillery for the Saga clan, passed away when he was only 13 years old, which he considered to be a great misfortune in his life. He had one younger brother and two older sisters, and he was the eldest son.

Okuma also expressed gratitude towards his mother in his autobiography, describing her as a kind and caring person who loved to take care of those in need. Even when his friends visited their home during his student days and sang songs loudly, she did not show any displeasure. She even raised some money to support his departure when he left for his studies.

It seems difficult to find a single answer to what propelled Okuma to his high position, considering his family environment, education in the Saga domain, and encounters with people after he entered society.

Unlike Fukuzawa, Okuma was not a philosopher but a practical man as a bureaucrat, politician, and educator.

From reading his autobiography, it can be inferred that his high aspirations and beliefs, as well as his optimism and positive thinking, combined with his persistent negotiation skills and honest personality, all contributed to his rise to such a high position.

Message from Okuma

In his later years, Okuma advocated for the theory of living to 125 years old, and passionately devoted himself to the theme of harmonizing Eastern and Western civilizations and achieving world peace. Until the end of his life, he never hesitated to encourage and admonish young people.

Looking back on his past and reflecting on his busy involvement in national affairs, Okuma expressed regret that he could not delve deeper into scholarship.

Perhaps, his final message was for young people to learn the depth of scholarship and become contributors to world peace.

The "Saga" of Sagas Future

If a saga were to be written about Saga, it would undoubtedly feature Okuma as an outstanding figure, as "saga" means a family or clan's chronicle in English, a genre in which British author Jeffrey Archer excels and fans of his work may immediately recognize. So, who will be the new wise figures to appear in the future chronicles? They will be individuals who tackle important issues in modern society.

Perhaps the wise figures of the future will not only be active in the center, but also in some corner of the region, the planet, and even the universe in some cases.

And just as Nabeshima Naomasa raised wise men and Okada Saburosuke nurtured female artists, it is endlessly intriguing to consider what new forms of education will emerge in the new era.

While taking a walk in the park of the ruins of Saga Castle, I could imagine many things.

I look forward to the day when a new saga of Saga will be written and I can set down my pen in anticipation.