Satsuma and Takamori Saigo:Spirits of Independence

2021/08/14

Witnessing Sakurajima

I visited Kagoshima, which is on the verge of the end of the rainy season.

Miyazaki and Kagoshima in the southern part of Kyushu have a climate that is quite different from other prefectures in the same region. The air is warm, slightly humid, and the sunlight is strong. You can feel the location of southern Kyushu, between temperate and subtropical zones, on your skin.

Kagoshima's latitude is the same as Shanghai in China, Cairo in Egypt, and Houston in the United States, among other cities in the world. 

On this occasion, I took the JR Nichinan Line express train from Miyazaki and entered Kagoshima. I realized that if I missed the early morning train, the next one would not arrive for another two hours, so I quickly finished breakfast at the hotel and jumped on the train. If one were to travel by land from Hakata in Fukuoka to Kagoshima via Oita and Miyazaki on the eastern side of Kyushu, it would take more than seven hours just for the travel time. On the other hand, if you take the Shinkansen and go through Kumamoto on the western side, you can arrive in about 1 hour and 40 minutes.

By the time I arrived at Kagoshima Chuo Station, I could see Sakurajima from the train window. I was able to admire the panoramic view of the volcano on the sea surface of the bay, and my emotions were naturally heightened. The shape of Sakurajima is beautiful like Mount Fuji, but the ridgeline of the mountain is slightly gentle. I suddenly thought that the emotions that people from Shizuoka have towards Mount Fuji and those that people from Kagoshima have towards Sakurajima may be similar. Although there may be differences in whether or not there is volcanic smoke, it is common for people to feel a sense of pride, security, and reverence towards the majestic mountain that they see up close and live with.

After getting off at the station, I checked my destination at the tourist information center as usual, bought a ticket for the sightseeing bus, and headed to my destination. The main places I visited this time were the "Kagoshima Reimeikan Museum of History and Culture" and the "Saigo Takamori and Nanshu Memorial Museum". I wandered around the city center of Kagoshima with a population of about 600,000, mainly around the ruins of Kagoshima Castle (Tsurumaru Castle) and the hill with an elevation of about 100 meters called "Shiroyama" which surrounds the castle.

I arrived at the Tsurumaru Castle site early in the morning and headed to the Reimeikan, a historical and art center located within the site. I was surprised by the long line at the entrance, but relieved to find out that it was for a special exhibition of Evangelion, not the permanent exhibition that I was going to visit.

The center is divided into sections for history, folklore, art, and crafts, among others. I felt that it had a better overall organization than any other museum I had visited in Kyushu. The exhibition on the history after the Meiji Restoration was particularly well done.

Independence of Southern Kyushu

On the walls of the history section of the Reimeikan museum, there is a timeline for each era with "All of Japan" and "Southern Kyushu" listed side by side vertically. As I read the explanations for each era, I began to sense the strong sense of independence that the people of this region hold towards the central government. First, let's delve into the explanations about this.

In the ancient timeline of Southern Kyushu, the first thing that catches the eye is the rebellion of the Hayato in 720 against the Yamato court. The Hayato were the people who had been living in southern Kyushu since ancient times. They resisted the central government's land laws (the Ritsuryo system) but were suppressed by the army led by Otomo no Tabito. According to the exhibition explanation, this rebellion was a "battle to protect their way of life."

In addition, in southern Kyushu, the same lord ruled for almost 600 years from the Kamakura period to the Edo period, and it was under the control of the Shimazu clan. Originally, the Shimazu clan was a military commander dispatched by Minamoto no Yoritomo to serve as a guardian, but they established themselves in this area and expanded their power. During the Warring States period, they became daimyo who unified the three southern Kyushu provinces of Satsuma, Osumi, and Hyuga.

The 16th lord of the Shimazu clan, Yoshihisa, defeated powerful warlords of Kyushu such as Sorin Otomo, Takanobu Ryuzoji, and Yoshihi Sagara one after another and nearly achieved complete domination of Kyushu. However, he was defeated in battle against Hideyoshi Toyotomi, who was advancing south, and thereafter had to maintain his power base in southern Kyushu. Later, in the Buntoku-Keityo War (1592-1598), Yoshihisa led 10,000 soldiers to invade Korea and submitted to Hideyoshi. Although he fought as a commander of the Western Army in the Battle of Sekigahara, his successor, Iehisa, restored relations with the Tokugawa shogunate, and walked the path of an outsider daimyo, recognized as the ruler of southern Kyushu.

From ancient times to the beginning of the modern era, we can see from this brief glimpse of history that the land of Kagoshima nurtured a strong spirit of independence, alternating between resistance and cooperation with the central government.

Moving forward in time to the Meiji Restoration period, Satsuma reversed the traditional relationship of central authority and local subservience. Satsuma and other powerful domains overthrew the Tokugawa shogunate, and eventually became the core of the new Meiji government.

In the period of the Bakumatsu and Meiji Restoration, I visited Kagoshima with a keen interest in why Satsuma played such a significant role. This report is a reflection of my short trip and the things I felt.

First, I will look back at the history and culture of the Satsuma clan, and then I will consider the personality of Takamori Saigo, who became a key figure in the Restoration. Finally, I would like to touch on the spirit that Satsuma and Saigo share. It may be a little lengthy, but I hope you will stay with me.

Shigehide and Nariakira

Let's first look at the role played by the enlightened lords, Shimazu Shigehide and Shimazu Nariakira, in the rise of Satsuma during the late Edo period. It can be said that it was their efforts that sowed the seeds of the Meiji Restoration.

During the late Edo period, the 8th lord of the Satsuma Domain, Shimazu Shigehide (1745-1833), actively incorporated Dutch studies into the domain's industry development, taking advantage of the relaxed restrictions on importing Western documents by the shogunate. He also emphasized academic promotion, establishing the domain's schools such as Zoshikan (1773) and Enbukan, where not only samurai but also peasants and townsmen's children were taught Western and Chinese studies, as well as martial arts.

Moreover, as the father-in-law of the 11th Tokugawa shogun, Ienari, Shigehide had influence even within the shogunate. Renowned for his love of Dutch studies, in his later years, he even allowed his great-grandson, Nariakira, to attend meetings with Siebold, the Dutch physician and close friend of his.

In addition, the 10th lord of the Shimazu clan, Shimazu Nariakira (1809-1858), who succeeded his great-grandfather, also actively incorporated Western culture and technology, and was among the first to promote the policy of enriching the country and strengthening the military and industrial sectors. He initiated the Shuseikan project, a group of Western-style factories, and developed modern industries such as iron and steel production, shipbuilding, and textile manufacturing. It is also worth noting that at the time, Satsuma was believed to have the largest military power in Japan.

Furthermore Nariakira was deeply involved in the national politics of the late Edo period, advocating for the unity of the Imperial court and the shogunate, and increasing his political power within the shogunate by arranging for his adopted daughter, Atsuhime of the Tenshoin, to marry the 13th shogun Tokugawa Iesada. However, he came into conflict with the shogunate's chief elder, Ii Naosuke, over the issue of the shogunal succession, and passed away suddenly at the age of 50 in the midst of his political career.

During the era that continued from Shigehiro to Nariakira, prominent figures such as Takamori Saigo (1828-1877) and Toshimichi Okubo (1830-1878), who played an active role in the Meiji Restoration, were nurtured in the Satsuma domain.

Originally, the samurai class accounted for 30% of the population in the Satsuma domain, a higher proportion compared to other domains, and there was a system of group education for the children of samurai called "Gochu Kyoiku". These factors contributed to the strength of Satsuma's talent development.

During the late Edo and Meiji periods, Satsuma was quick to undertake reforms in its domain, maintaining military and economic power that surpassed other domains, and the domain lord held significant political power at the center of the government. In such an environment, young people were able to play an active role in the new era.

In the city of Kagoshima, there is a neighborhood called Kajiyacho located a little away from the center of Tsurumaru Castle. It was an area where lower-ranking samurai of the Satsuma clan such as Saigo and Okubo lived. There is a local saying that goes, "Everything that happened from the overthrow of the shogunate to the Meiji Restoration and the Russo-Japanese War was done in Kajiyacho." Many talented individuals who were active during that period emerged from the surrounding area of this neighborhood. Among them are well-known figures such as General Iwao Oyama, Admiral Heihachiro Togo, Prime Minister Gonbei Yamamoto, and Prime Minister Masayoshi Matsukata. Although the local perspective may not be entirely free of bragging, it is true that this area produced many distinguished individuals. By the way, you can see a statue of Okubo Toshimichi near the river that flows through this neighborhood.

The town of Kajiyacho, where lower-ranking samurai of the Satsuma domain lived, produced remarkable individuals who shook the foundations of the country during the late Edo and Meiji periods. They went on to reject the traditional system of the last Satsuma lord, Shimazu Hisamitsu, who succeeded Nariakira after his death, and instead pushed for a revolution in the name of the Meiji Restoration. Their independent spirit led them to contribute to the building of modern Japan, surpassing the boundaries of Satsuma.

The Emergence of Takamori Saigo

Next, let's move on to a discussion about a key figure of the late Edo and Meiji periods, Saigo Takamori (1828-1877). First, let's take a look at Saigo's profile.

Saigo was born into a family of lower-ranking samurai in the Satsuma domain. His family was a large one with seven siblings, including himself as the eldest son. The family struggled financially, and Saigo remembers accompanying his father to borrow money from merchants when he was in his teens.

Saigo's first job in the Satsuma domain was in agricultural administration. He visited farmland to inspect the state of rice cultivation and collect taxes. Although he had good seniors to learn from, he gradually became critical of the domain's agricultural policies that burdened the people. Later, he compiled his thoughts into a petition that caught the attention of the domain's lord, Shimazu Nariakira. Nariakira took Saigo to Edo as his personal attendant, recognizing his talents and potential. He also introduced Saigo to scholars like Fujita Toko of the Mito domain and Hashimoto Sanai of the Fukui domain to broaden his intellectual horizons and social networks. Nariakira was not only Saigo's lord but also his greatest teacher and benefactor.

After the sudden death of Saigo Takamori's mentor, Shimazu Nariakira, in 1858, Saigo went through two exiles. Despite this, he was highly regarded in the central government and was also pushed by the Satsuma domain's samurai to become a central figure in the tumultuous times that followed, including the Satsuma-Choshu Alliance, the Meiji Restoration, and the Boshin War. He grew into a pivotal figure in these events.

As a revolutionary

This is a bit of a digression, but let's touch upon a notable scene that demonstrates the connection between Saigo and other key figures of the Meiji Restoration. Please note that the following quotes are based on the words of those involved or hearsay, and may also involve speculation from novelists.

After the first Choshu Expedition in 1864, the goal of overthrowing the shogunate was achieved by the alliance between Choshu and Satsuma, led by none other than Sakamoto Ryoma (1836-1867). At the Satsuma clan residence in Kyoto, Sakamoto introduced the weak-positioned Kido Takayoshi (1833-1877) to Saigo. Sakamoto's final words, "Isn't Choshu pitiful?" convinced Saigo, who was initially hesitant, to form the Satsuma-Choshu Alliance, which played a decisive role in the overthrow of the shogunate.

According to their conversation, when asked by Ryoma if he would walk the path of a government official in the new government after the overthrow of the Tokugawa shogunate, Saigo was surprised to hear him say, "I have no interest in that at all. I want to do the world's Kaientai," which left him amazed. Ryoma also left a comment on Saigo, saying, "If he were a temple bell, he would make a small sound if hit lightly, but if hit hard, he would make a great sound."

The process leading to the bloodless surrender of Edo Castle in 1868 was a conversation between Katsu Kaishu (1823-1899) and Saigo. Saigo had heard about Katsu's idea for a new state to counter the Western powers, and was impressed with his insight and character. They met again at the Satsuma clan's mansion in Edo, where Katsu promised to negotiate with the shogunate and hand over Edo Castle. Saigo accepted this agreement and decided to call off the attack. As a result of their agreement, Edo Castle was surrendered without a drop of blood being shed, and the new government army led by Saigo achieved victory without fighting.

From the above anecdotes, it can be said that Saigo, who led the powerful military force of Satsuma, demonstrated decisive leadership at a turning point in history and opened up a new era. Therefore, he may be considered a revolutionary.

By the way, Katsu Kaishu once said, "I have seen two terrifying people in this world. One is Yokoi Shonan, a thinker from Kumamoto Domain, and the other is Takamori Saigo. There is no doubt that Saigo was the one to bear the burden of the world's affairs." Even after Saigo's death, Katsu continued to take care of the Saigo family for the rest of his life.

Handsome and Charming

By the way, what was it about Saigo as a person that played such a decisive role in moving people and shaping history? Perhaps it was simply his overwhelming personal charm that drew so many people to him. Let's start with his good looks.

In the era of the late Edo period and the Meiji Restoration, the average height of Japanese men was around 155 centimeters. However, at that time, Saigo Takamori stood over 180 centimeters tall and weighed over 100 kilograms, having a body like a sumo wrestler. His eyes were big and his facial features were deeply carved, giving him a memorable face that people would not forget after meeting him once. The star quality that Saigo's physique and appearance brought cannot be denied.

By the way, when he was young and discovered by the lord of his clan, Shimazu Nariakira, Saigo's first job was to negotiate with the shogunate's women's quarters to support the marriage of the shogun's wife. He successfully brokered a marriage between the 13th shogun, Tokugawa Iesada, and Nariakira's adopted daughter, Atsuhime. It may have been a feat he could not have achieved without popularity among women.

Moreover, it wasn't just his appearance that drew people to him. He had charm in his personality and behavior that made him irresistible to people.

When he was young, Saigo was said to have given a somewhat sluggish and relaxed impression due to his large body, slow movements, and slight air of dullness. Even as an adult, this atmosphere may not have changed. Even during his exile, Saigo was popular and was known to have played with the children on the island and taught them how to read and write. There are also stories that he was indifferent to his clothes and food in prison, and the guards took pity on him and took care of him. Additionally, he had a sweet tooth and loved eel. During the Battle of Ueno with the Shogunate's army, he had many black sesame buns made at Fugetsudo and distributed them to the government soldiers. His love for dogs is also a well-known story.

Leadership qualities

Furthermore, in terms of his ability to attract people, it is also believed that Saigo's outstanding leadership qualities played a major role.

As a commander of the new government army, Saigo fought against the Aizu and Shonai regions in the Boshin War (1868-9). He treated the defeated lord and samurai of the Shonai domain generously. This earned him a great deal of respect from the people of Shonai, and some even visited Saigo in Satsuma to seek his teachings. The exchange of questions and answers during this visit was later compiled into a book called "Saigo Nanshu's Last Teachings" (1890), which is a valuable source of Saigo's own words that can still be read today.

In this short "Teachings", which is a precious record of the spoken words of Saigo Takamori, he shows the qualities he seeks in a leader. I would like to quote it here: "Those who hold a position above all the people should be cautious of themselves, maintain proper conduct, avoid arrogance and extravagance, strive for thriftiness, work diligently in their duties to become the standard of the people, and if they cannot feel sorry for their own labor, it is difficult for political decrees to be carried out. However, if they decorate their houses, dress extravagantly, embrace beautiful women, and seek to accumulate wealth, they will never achieve the achievements of the Restoration. Even the righteous war of the Boshin War will be disgraceful to those who died in battle." It should be noted that the content clearly criticizes the members of the Meiji government at that time.

Furthermore, Saigo also left the following words: "Those who do not require their own lives, their own reputation, or wealth are the ones who will cause trouble. Only those who cause trouble can accomplish the great work of the nation."

After the Boshin War, Saigo returned to his hometown and was invited to rejoin the new government, where he played a significant role in the implementation of the abolition of feudal domains (Haihan-chiken). During this time, he was said to have appeared at the government office wearing a simple kimono, and while other members of the cabinet enjoyed luxurious meals, he contented himself with rice balls. He also wore the same attire to official banquets and never dressed up, even wearing sandals instead of formal shoes.

Indeed, I agree that by embodying the qualities he demanded of a leader, as quoted earlier, Saigo Takamori stood out among the key figures of the new government.

In the end, during the Satsuma Rebellion (1877), which engulfed the entire Kyushu region, many people were devoted to Saigo and gave their lives for him, as is well known.

Sotarou Masuda, from the Buzen Nakatsu domain, participated in the last battle where defeat was imminent and, like Saigo, died in battle on Shiroyama. He admired Saigo, and left behind the words: "If I spend one day with my teacher, I will not live without love for one day. If I spend three days with my teacher, I will not live without love for three days. I am inseparable from my beloved teacher and cannot leave him. Now, whether it is good or bad, we will share life and death together." He died at the young age of 29. This story illustrates the greatness of Saigo's character.

Saigo Takamori was also respected by Emperor Meiji, and his honor was restored through a pardon in 1889. In 1898, a bronze statue of him was erected in Ueno. Later, in his book "The Ideal Japanese" (1908), the Christian author Uchimura Kanzo listed Saigo as the first representative Japanese person and highly praised him as a leader of the Meiji Restoration and as a selfless man who lived according to the laws of nature.

It is likely that even more than 20 years after his death, the popularity of Saigo was deeply rooted in society. At the statue of Saigo in Ueno, there may have been an atmosphere of nostalgia for the greatness of a figure that cannot be expressed in words, admired by both commoners and the emperor.

No-side and Satsuma

In conclusion, I would like to summarize and conclude with one spirit that is common to Satsuma and Saigo.

Next to the "Saigo Nanshu Keisho Kan" that I visited, there is a Nanshu Shrine and Nanshu Graveyard. The graves of approximately 2,000 warriors who fought alongside Saigo in the Satsuma Rebellion are arranged in a stepped pattern centered around Saigo, creating a solemn atmosphere that is almost too sacred for photography. It feels as though Saigo is still commanding his brave soldiers, waiting for the historical evaluation of the Satsuma Rebellion and looking upon those who are still alive.

The turbulent Bakumatsu and Meiji Restoration came to a tragic end with the Satsuma Rebellion. This war was sparked by criticism of the new government by discontented former samurai who had lost their privileges in the Restoration, as well as students of private schools founded by Saigo. It developed into the largest civil war in Japanese history. Saigo and his followers, who were defeated by the government forces, were treated as rebels. The historical significance of the war and Saigo's role in it have yet to be fully evaluated. As the late Kanzo Uchimura wrote, "It will take at least a hundred years to evaluate the significance of the Satsuma Rebellion."

I also noticed a relatively new monument that was recently erected next to the Commemorative Hall. According to the description, it was set up a few years ago with the aim of reconciliation between the government forces and the Saigo army who fought in the Satsuma Rebellion. It seems that even now, the graves of the war victims are located in separate places for the government forces and the Saigo army.

If we trace back through history, Satsuma had already set up a monument at Koya San 400 years ago to comfort the spirits of both the enemy and ally who were sacrificed in the Bunroku-Keicho Korean War. It is likely that the people who recently erected this new monument also had similar feelings.

After the war, it is customary in Satsuma to console the victims regardless of whether they were enemies or allies and to consider the reconciliation of both sides. This is the spirit of "no-side," a tradition of Satsuma that Saigo demonstrated after the Boshin War.

In his novel, Ikenami Shotarou has Saigo say, "I hope that the Satsuma Rebellion will be the last war between Japanese people." Ironically, Saigo ended up being on the losing side in this war. Unfortunately, I have yet to come across an article on "no-side" addressed to Saigo from the winning side.

Magma from the Regions

The Meiji Restoration, a revolution that opened a new era in Japan, was led by Satsuma, located at the southern end of the Japanese archipelago, with the lower-ranking samurai at the bottom of the clan as the driving force.

The revolutionary energy of the Bakumatsu and Meiji Restoration that erupted from the south of Japan became a massive magma and swept across the entire country. In a sense, the fight for a better life that the fiercely independent people of this region had sought since the rebellion of the Hayato in the 8th century was realized through the series of reforms implemented by the Meiji government, such as the abolition of feudal domains, equal rights for all four social classes, and land tax reform, and achieved results throughout Japan.

After finishing the tour, I returned to the station and saw a large bronze statue in the square of 19 students sent overseas by the Satsuma clan during the end of the Edo period. The clan sent ambitious young men to study abroad, some of whom later returned and contributed to their hometown, contributed to Japan's modernization, or even perished overseas.

Will young people from Kyushu with the independence and initiative to surprise Japan and the world emerge in the future?

While looking forward to the emergence of new leaders, I would like to conclude this article.