The Man Who Makes Waves Smaller
28/3/2021 Sun.
【Day 374】
Tokky told me that the waves at Palm Beach were pretty big and really good on Saturday even though the wave forecast was only one to two-foot.
So I decided to go surfing in Palm Beach this morning. I knew that the size of waves would get smaller than yesterday, but I couldn’t say it’s good waves.
The strong backwash ran off the shore towards outside so that the breaks were quite wired, and it’s hard to ride out of it.
Tokky said that I was a sort of the man who makes waves smaller. Yes, I could be.
I find it really difficult to meet good waves recently.
However, I could catch almost 30 waves in one and a half hours. So I was satisfied enough.
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